[mt94ss]

Not so sure about the Pontiac front bumper. It is just a bit too narrow where I would have to trim it or the lower fender extensions to get it to tuck in. Then the upper part almost would be in the way of the stock grill.

I will probably just use the '56 Packard bumper - it's straight across and should compliment the stock grill.

The best would be a '58 Impala bumper but they are very hard to find cheap...

Mike

 

[mt94ss]

Put on a '56 Packard bumper and I like it. Wish I still had the Dagmars for it.

 

[406Rich]

Mike anymore updates...?fahne19

 

[mt94ss]

Hey Rich, yeah, I got the '58 Chevy car bumper that I really wanted last week so that will be my front bumper. It's in great shape.

Also got a Radatron Space Saver III gauge from my bud today at the Canby swap meet. I didn't sell anything but got this so it was worth getting up at 4:30am this morning to go.

It looks like a chrome tach. Should be a cool add-on.

I am leaning towards the LT1 for my drivetrain. With that and the T/A front clip and the 4l60e and 10-bolt from my '94 Impala it will have almost the same drivetrain as an Impala SS or a cop car. Should scoot and get great economy and be a breeze to drive wherever. Got to get the fuel tank situated. I heard that a suburban from the '90s fuel cell aould fit in the rails of a '59 truck. I can't spend $500-600 for a manufactured fuel cell and pump. Maybe I will check out the Ford fuel tank I got for my '55. It fits in the stock location of that and used either the EFI or carbed fuel pump.

Going to get the hydro-boost from an Astro van (or like) for the braking. Should have that in the next week or so, then it's finish weld the frame and test assemble all the new drivetrain.

Mike

 

[406Rich]

That is one neat unit.....you picked up....here`s a link for Tanks inc, you can also get one from Bob Drake, these are already set up for F.I. they will fit your frame rails, 18 gallon....same tank I used from Bob Drake..$ 140 and 30 for sender...
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...age/ptype=product/product_id=249/category_id=63/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd249.htm

 

[mt94ss]

Rich...

So you used a 49-52 Chevy car tank?
http://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.as...0e8b7-9899-482f-9e7b-9f358301a978&Category=47c0e8b7-9899-482f-9e7b-9f358301a978

Looks like $140 plus $40 for the fuel sending unit and $40 for the pickup for EFI minus the pump. I guess I could use any EFI pump? ( I have a couple from my parts cars, one GM one Ford )
$220+shipping sounds pretty good for a new tank.

How did you hook up the filler? Through the bed? On the side?

Thanks for the help.

Mike

 

[406Rich]

I`m running my filler thru the bed, using a filler from a Geo prism...( I think ) its one and three eights tube matches the filler tube. I cut and welded the filer to fit my application. The vent is right at the top no filling issues. Your frame is slightly wider than the 63 to 66 in the rear. I dilled a small hole in the cap for the vent using a 1/16 drill bit, one verticle, and another horizontal thru the top of the cap to intersect the other hole. I still have to build a small diamond plate box to go around it, it will also hold a bottle jack and handle. You can see the vent hole in the flange on the third pic. It dosen`t hang down as low as my spare did...

 

[mt94ss]

Did a little body work today. The front splash pan had been dented pretty bad, actually folded back into itself and pinched. You can see it here.

I broke out the hammers, dollies, pliers, crescent wrench, home-made slapper, impact hammer and the shrinking disc. The red dot is explained later...

This is the first round of pulling. I bent the worst out with the pliers. To get into the pinch I used the impact hammer from behind.

After a few minutes with the slapper and a door panel hammer it was good enough to use the shrinking disc. It works great. Alternate between it and the slapper/dollies. It's close enough now that a skim coat with filler should be good. This area won't even be seen, it's behind the bumper.

It took about 2 hours total.

I will recommend not setting your hammer on top of the fender while working like this. I was lying on my back pounding the dent and one of the hammers fell and hit my bald head. Much blood came out and of course my wife was a bit freaked. Head wounds are always bleeders. Anyway, it wasn't bad enough for stitches, but I have a cool bandaid/patch on my head now... looks really cool. Don't use the fender that you are pounding on to hold your other tools... lesson learned.

 

[406Rich]

LoL, sorry for laughfter and hope you`re ok, great job on the splash apron....!

 

[gilbert011]

Very nice truck. I am a fan of long beds.

 

[mt94ss]

Finally decided to get back on the truck. My goal is running and driving by April.

This weekend I borrowed my bud's Miller 211 to finish weld the T/A clip to the frame. Went really well. I used a filler piece of metal like a backer rod to fill the small gap on the inside of the frame. Sorry for the iPhone pic quality. It took about 2 hours of messing around to do.

Here's the inside rear pass side:

And the front of the same side:

Today I got the engine in but ran into a snag with the engine mounts. The clip came from a Pontiac with a Poncho motor so I had to move the mounts. There were 2 sets of holes that looked like they might be for BOP and Chevy. I tried the other holes and 2 of the 3 lined up so I drilled out the other one. When I set the engine in it wouldn't line up with the mounts. They appear to be a bit too low still. Something is wrong here and I'll have to do more 'F-body' research. These problems wouldn't exist if it came from a Camaro... food for thought on conversions.

There is plenty of room for the 700r4 and some headers that I had lying around, got lucky there. I did use the plasma cutter to pop little access holes for the motor mounts and it made taking them off and on a lot easier.

Also installed the rear from my '94 Impala (3.08 posi/disc) and it's low... Right now the truck is sitting on the frame. I flipped the axle to the top and I have new perches but the old U-bolts. Am I doing it wrong? Even if I c-notch the frame I will have almost no room for suspension travel. What are others of you doing here? Stock spring pack? New springs? Air bags/shocks?

Mike

 

[cfjfisher]

Progress is a good thing

 

[406Rich]

Also installed the rear from my '94 Impala (3.08 posi/disc) and it's low... Right now the truck is sitting on the frame. I flipped the axle to the top and I have new perches but the old U-bolts. Am I doing it wrong? Even if I c-notch the frame I will have almost no room for suspension travel. What are others of you doing here? Stock spring pack? New springs? Air bags/shocks

Mike

Mike many of them that are lowering,... are substantually c-notching the frame ( like a foot up from where it would normally reside ), and most of the real low ones are using either four link, ( porter built ) or trailing arms, the kinda thing I don`t care for but its your truck. We`ll help you anyway we can...

 

[mt94ss]

Mike many of them that are lowering,... are substantually c-notching the frame ( like a foot up from where it would normally reside ), and most of the real low ones are using either four link, ( porter built ) or trailing arms, the kinda thing I don`t care for but its your truck. We`ll help you anyway we can...

Thanks Rich. I just realized that you are in Elk Grove. That's where we stay when we go to Disneyland (about halfway from our house) right there on Laguna Ave at the Hampton Suites.

Anyway, I looked into the porterbuilt piece but it is too extreme. I was going to C the frame and leave it leafs but I have a friend here that is going to come over and give me some more ideas. He is into '66s and he is thinking that I may want to go with a 4 link. That might be an easy enough idea as the rear has the tabs for it already.

Here is his truck:

If I do that I will probably put on air bags to raise it up while driving.

 

[406Rich]

Even with four link you`ll still need to c-notch to go as low as you want...unless your only going as low as the frame will let you...!
here`s a pic of a porter built in a 66 with the extreme c-notch, and he was`nt even down on the ground yet.

 

[mt94ss]

Saw this on another forum... remove the rear spring hangers from the frame and flip them over and mount them to the top. Lowers the car about 5 1/2". Anyone done that here or know about this method. Doesn't cost anything but a rebuild of the bushings.

 

[cfjfisher]

That looks like you would bottom out everywhere. Not much travel room there.

 

[406Rich]

Mike I`ve seen that several times, you might try it, its a no cost change, if it don`t work out you can always go back, when I built my `33 chevy sedan I didnot want to spend major bucks, I dearced ( flattened ) my rear springs actually 59 chevy truck springs, removed two leaves ( every other leaf ), reversed the main leaf and built shorter shackles from a trailer supply house, just a few ideas you can do....

 

[406Rich]

Thanks Rich. I just realized that you are in Elk Grove. That's where we stay when we go to Disneyland (about halfway from our house) right there on Laguna Ave at the Hampton Suites.
.

Thats about two miles from us....small world..

 

[mt94ss]

I mocked up the flipped mounts tonight and I think it will be fine.

Not nearly as low but I bet it will be a good driver and look way cooler than it did stock. I have some bump stops that I will put on the bottom of the frame just in case. Now to get the rebuild kits for the shackles. Anyone know how the front ones come out? I loosened the 1/2" nut that looks like it clamps the pin but it will not budge. Doesn't look like it turns like the rear ones.

In the future I may want to drop it more, this is just so I can keep on my tight schedule of driving it in April.

Next major steps are:
*Mount new master cyl pedal assembly/brakes
*Make a crossmember for the trans
*New driveline
*Rewire whole truck
*Fuel tank/lines
*New door glass (all 4 pieces are broken)
*Rebuild bench seat

Of course the rad/power steering pump/carb-dist-starter etc. on engine/wheels & tires, blah blah blah...