It's been a while since I rebuilt my/a 69 non tilt column (auto column) for my 68 which had a three on the tree (tott) non tilt column that one of the past Owners (PO's) was using to control the auto trans shifting points GOT TO LOVE BACKYARD "INGENUITY" AT ITS BEST" now that thats out of the way LOL getting to my question for you about the "some play at the steering wheel" im not following/understanding you so bear with me here, using the steering wheel from sitting in the seat holding (the wheel) does the "play" occure when you pull and push up n down from your throat to the floorboard or sideways like side window to side window or left to right. Now I hope I made sence.

Also not following the "one piece shaft" comment, both of my TOTT manual trans column and the auto trans column both have a two piece shaft with a collapsible safety idea built in so if in an accident it collapses the steering column so it doesn't push inwards towards the drivers chest and head. Explain the one piece shaft comment.

 

It's been a while since I rebuilt my/a 69 non tilt column (auto column) for my 68 which had a three on the tree (tott) non tilt column that one of the past Owners (PO's) was using to control the auto trans shifting points GOT TO LOVE BACKYARD "INGENUITY" AT ITS BEST" now that thats out of the way LOL getting to my question for you about the "some play at the steering wheel" im not following/understanding you so bear with me here, using the steering wheel from sitting in the seat holding (the wheel) does the "play" occure when you pull and push up n down from your throat to the floorboard or sideways like side window to side window or left to right. Now I hope I made sence.

Also not following the "one piece shaft" comment, both of my TOTT manual trans column and the auto trans column both have a two piece shaft with a collapsible safety idea built in so if in an accident it collapses the steering column so it doesn't push inwards towards the drivers chest and head. Explain the one piece shaft comment.

 

Hope this is helpful

 

Thanks for the reply. As for the "one piece", I meant that my column doesn't have the flex joint in the middle like I believe the later ones had. Mine does have the "slip" feature with the little plastic nubs that stick out where the slip joint is. As for the movement, when sitting in the seat with hands on the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock positions, if I push one side toward the dash the other side moves toward my chest and vise-versa, and it also will move slightly side to side (not rotation, but toward the driver's door and the pass door). I tried to open the link you sent but it wouldn't open.? This situation might be my fault since I have two columns here that I'm dealing with and possibly have mixed some parts, but I don't think so. I don't think the column I am trying to use (early, '67'68?) is supposed to have a spring toward the top of the shaft, that pushes down on the top bearing, but if I don't have it there, there is nothing riding against the top bearing to keep it loaded and keep the slack out. I know this is hard to visualize but with these bearings being thrust bearings they need to be loaded in order to keep the inner race from trying to ride up out of the balls and allowing side play. Anyway, I am probably overlooking something simple but I will take it apart for the umpteenth time and see what I can make of it. The spring I keep putting in the top to put pressure on the top bearing isn't shown in the exploded view I have. But it fits in the bottom of the plastic piece that has the horn contact ring on top and if it isn't there the bearing has nothing pushing down to keep pressure on it. Thanks again for the help.

 

I'll try it once more.

 

No, it doesn't go in/out. It goes side to side. I will try to send a video and a few pics that show it and show the spring and other parts. Please let me know what you think.

 

Here is more.

 

I can't get the video to attach.? I will keep trying.

 

I never could attach the video of the movement of the wheel but I took it apart looked again and put it back together and tightened the main nut (on the shaft) tighter than before and it seems a little better. The spring shown in the pic is the one that I'm not sure if it goes there or not, but if it doesn't there is nothing to push against the bearing.?

 

Both posts #8&9 the pictures didn't download, nothing there, zero/nada

 

All forums have been experiencing similar image issues. The engineers are currently working to fix these issues.

 

Well I'm back. Sorry for the sporadic posts but I have been digging for info and ordering parts/waiting on parts.! I now have a stash of parts but still don't have a set that work together. Frustrating!. You guys were correct in saying that the plastic/brass horn connector ring for the non-tilt column is different and has a longer tube, with a bevel end on it that seats right in the inner race of the top bearing. Bingo, wobble gone! BUT, now I can't get the parts that work the horn. I ordered a new hub and a new horn adapter kit (altho I am not using the stock steering wheel/horn). The new hub I got doesn't have the copper ring on the bottom and the "brush" (contact pin) that came is totally different. I don't know what I need and don't want to keep ordering parts hoping something will work. I have been trying to use the LMC exploded view and ordered some of this stuff from them and some from other sources, but they list all of the parts as correct for my application. Is there a OEM parts view I can see? Anyway, thanks and I hope someone can give me some advice.

 

Pictures are working again. If you can give us a few pictures and we'll see if we can help.

 

Thanks Dave. I tried but I can't attach a the pics. It's me, not the forum. I used to have a different set-up on this computer and could do more stuff on it but I have had this (chrome) for quite a while now and I'm still lost on it. Meanwhile, I think I have shadetree-ed it and made something that will work. I took a piece of brass and turned it on my lathe for a contact pin (brush), made a insulating washer, found a spring that fits, soldered a wire to it and will see if it all works today. Anyway, There are some parts that fit together then another group that fit together, but the pieces I need to cross over from one group to the other won't fit. I have hit another snag now in that the threads on the steering shaft, that hold the steering wheel on, are partially stripped. I'm usually pretty good at figuring a fix for mechanical stuff (non-electrical) but this shaft has me wondering what to do. I could probably carefully work the diameter down and rethread it 7/16" instead of the 1/2", or pull everything back apart and look for another shaft/column assy.. I have the seat out and at the upholstery shop so I am not pushed too much time wise. Anyway, thanks to all for trying to help me.

 

OK guys. I was able to take my steering shaft to my shop and build up the threaded portion, stick it in the lathe, turn it down to 0.500", and rethread it. So, everything is back together except the shift lever. I can't get the pivot holes to line up.? They are about 1/8" or a little more off, so the roll pin won't go in. Also, is there supposed to be a spring in there to keep the lever in the position toward the dash (this is an automatic trans). I don't recall there being a spring for that when I took it all apart. Thanks

 

Check this thread from another forum. It has a diagram that may help you.

3spd Automatic column linkage - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

3spd Automatic column linkage Engine & Drivetrain

67-72chevytrucks.com

 

Here is the diagrams numbers information