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I've been thinking about narrowing a rearend.I see alot of guys using tools like band saws,chop saws ,or even cutoff wheels in a die grinder.What about using a pipe cutter,won't work or just cause its not in the tool box.I was thinking it would give the most accurate cut and it even leaves a slight bevel.Any thoughts?
David
 

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I used a chop saw. You can also use a sawzall if you get one of those hose rings and put it around the axle tubes to use as a guide, thats pretty accurate.

I don't see any issues with a pipe cutter if its big enough and cuts deep enough to make it through the pipe. It sounds like a winner to me.
 

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I`m with Bam on this, it would accurate enough on the cut, just have to more accurate on the aligment and weld...
 

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Bam that rear jig, does it have a solid shaft for the alignment..?
 

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Bam that rear jig, does it have a solid shaft for the alignment..?
Yes it does. It also has solid bearings for alignment for Ford, Chevy, and Mopar. The only draw back with this jig is you have to do one side at a time. I seen jigs that the shaft gos completely through the housing so that you can do both sides at one. I saved a little money with this one though, so its all good.
 

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I mark the tube using a card made for that purpose then cut it with a sawzall. I made my own jig, way back when. I have only done Fords and Dodges I send the axles to Moser to be cut or made.
 

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Narrowing a Dana 70

I have narrowed the frame on a '99 Dodge 2500 and will be fitting a 55 3100 soon. I am to the point now that I need to narrow the rear housing 6 inches. Since I already narrowed the frame, that moved my shock and spring mounts in 3 inches on each side. It would really simplify things if I took the lenghth off between the center section and spring/shock mounts. Can I just cut 3 inches out of each side and butt weld or should I go through the added effort and expense to sleeve it? This is a Dana 70 - it's a beast - and the brackets and mounts are not easy to relocate or replace. I would need pipe with an id of 3.5 inches, which I can't find, but a local machine shop can make me a couple of sleeves economically (including "windows" to rosette weld in a couple more places). Seems like a sleeve would force it to be straight, and add strength.
 

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Pardon my ignorance, but why not pull the tubes from the center section, cut them down and put it all back together again vice sleeving the tubes? Unless the tubes are seam welded you should just have to drill the weld holes and press the tubes out or BFH them out. Maybe I'm not thinking it through though, thoughts?
 

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Pardon my ignorance, but why not pull the tubes from the center section, cut them down and put it all back together again vice sleeving the tubes? Unless the tubes are seam welded you should just have to drill the weld holes and press the tubes out or BFH them out. Maybe I'm not thinking it through though, thoughts?
Just guessing that they are pressed in there pretty tight, you may end up making them worthless to be reused.
 

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I agree it would be easier to disassemble from the outside working in, cut the tubes, and then reweld everything, vice starting at the inside and working out. I guess I have just never heard of starting in the middle and sleeving it. I've done that narrowing trailer axles, but never tried it on a drive axle. Ultimately starting in the middle would be easier I guess.
 

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Rear ends

I cut mine down with a 4" grinding wheel. Then chickened out and sent it to Moser to finish 150 plus shipping. They measured for the new axles too.
 
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