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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Has anyone installed the rear tank conversion from Brothers Truck parts or LMC ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Lake, the weather is heading in the right direction, it hit 19 degrees today! For about 10 minutes! Maybe 30 degrees tomorrow. I haven`t ordered a tank yet, swaying towards LMC. The tank is 12" deep. a little concerned how low it will hang. I really appreciate your build thread, I refer to it a lot! I wanted to ask you if you have drop spindles in the front of your truck? Thanks
 

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Glad you like the build thread.

You are right to be concerned about how low the tank will hang 'cause it will with the "old school blazer" style tank LMC sells. But if you are going to use a stock rear bumper it will hide some of the tank. I wanted to use a roll pan without a rear bumper, that's the reason I looked elsewhere and ended up using a 49-52 Chevy passenger car gas tank, which at the time I did it was uncharted territory.

The front suspension on my truck is essentially stock '65. The previous owner heated the front coils to drop the truck and removed the stock bump stops.

As it sets right now I guesstimate it is at about a 3" drop. I contemplated replacing the springs, but everything I have read about 3" drop springs is that they ride horrible.

I am happy with the current ride and the braking, with the four wheel drum brakes. I also like the look of 6 lug truck wheels on a truck. So I've decided to leave it as is. Thus far my only front suspension modification has been adding some aftermarket bump stops.

Do me a favor and measure your truck height, using the photo below as a guide (axle centerline to fender lip), and then post it up here. I'd like to know just how much drop my truck has vs. the stock configuration.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
You are right on. Center of my hub to bottom lip of fender is "18.5 I am going to investigate the procedure to heat the front springs. Some time if you would, post the measurement of the rear fender lip to center of axle.(mine is "15.5) I am also swaying towards a rollpan. (decided to keep it a stepside) I like your impala tail lights, (but I`m not going to copy everything you've done!) I might use an LED 1939 ford tail light, Thanks again
 

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My rear axle c/l to fender lip is 13". Keep in mind though my bed is a 67-72 box with 57-65 fenders. I also installed 1" spacers to raise the bed so the bottom of the steps lined up with the bottom of the body, this also made the factory indented area on the back of the cab drop below the front panel of the bed. I also widened the box 4 inches. Not much I haven't had "my way with" on the bed of my truck. ;)

Thanks for posting the stock front end height of 18-1/2", that confirms the 3" flame dropped springs.

And in regards to copying stuff I did on my truck.... have at it. It's all good.

Flame Dropping Coils
The guy I bought my truck from said they put jack stands under the frame at the front bumper with a gap between the stands and the frame. The gap equals how much they wanted to drop the truck. They then heated the springs until the truck lowered down and was sitting on the jack stands.

Lots of folks say that is bad, and not to do it. At this point, for me, it is what it is. I can say that thus far the end result has provided acceptable results.

Results may vary, as they say. anim_25​
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for posting ratsnest install. CTPA looks like a good forum also, so I joined that one too. Pulled the bumper & mocked up the LMC tank with cardboard & a duct tape rollpan. I`ve got the bottom of the cardboard tank hanging "10 below the lower frame rail (don`t know how accurate that is) it leaves me "12 from the ground to bottom of tank. The jury is still out on what tank to use.
 

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I've spent the last 30+ years working as a Mechanical Design Engineer. I take a lot of pride in my designs. Anytime I see anything hanging under a vehicle, that is clearly visible, that doesn't need to be visible, I say to myself pi$$ poor design.

I see them all the time: Brand new vehicles that have the gas tank, spare tire, emergency brake cables, trailer hitches, mufflers, etc. that are visible are a pet peeve of mine.

The one exception to this is if you want something visual, such as header mufflers, side pipes, traction bars, etc.:

The jury is still out on what tank to use.
Your honor, I submit the following as Exhibit A and Exhibit B. Please present this to the jury for review ;).

Exhibit A: Blazer Style Rear Mount Gas Tank.................................. VS ......................................Exhibit B: 49-52 Chevy Passenger Car Rear Mount Gas Tank



Lets add Exhibit C too. Beautiful, clean, satin paint... wait what's that hanging under the rear roll pan? WTH?:
 

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I am not a fan of flange mounting a gas tank to the frame. The factory method of using straps helps minimize loads into the tank due to frame flexing.
 

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I am not a fan of flange mounting a gas tank to the frame. The factory method of using straps helps minimize loads into the tank due to frame flexing.
I agree completely
The flange is not intended to take that type of load. It may work for a while but not for the long haul
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I ordered the aluminum tank (prior to seeing your thougts on the flanges) which I think is a good point. I think I will fab & add straps along with the flange mount.
 

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Well Donnie lot's of folks are running flanged tanks, 60's Mustangs and Falcons had a flanged tank that bolted in the trunk, basically was the bottom of the trunk. The flange went all the way around the tank. Good design.... opinions vary. I never like have a fuel tank inside a vehicle with the occupants without some sort of steel containment structure over it.
Safety is Job One... wait, isn't that Ford's motto? 16coffee

It all depends on:
  • how the tank was designed,
  • what your suspension is,
  • what you do with the truck.
On a trailing arm truck, like yours, the rear frame rails won't see much movement, unless you haul heavy loads in the bed or tow trailers with it.

But on a leaf spring truck the rear frame rails will be flexing and moving a lot more than a trailing arm truck.

Make sense?
 

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Looks good Charlie..! I`m somewhere in the middle of you two...!
 

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Tank Relocation

Okay, as I said in my intro I am very new to this working on trucks thing. I have what I think are probably bonehead questions for you all. I purchased the 17 gallon top fill relocation kit from LMC. Can I tackle installing this thing without removing the bed? Also, I noticed there is a cross bar in the area that I will be installing the tank. Is that beam that I am pointing at in the picture just part of the spare tire holder? Can I safely remove that without jeopardizing the structural integrity? I know these are probably dumb questions but any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Also, I noticed there is a cross bar in the area that I will be installing the tank. Is that beam that I am pointing at in the picture just part of the spare tire holder? Can I safely remove that without jeopardizing the structural integrity?
Yes it can be removed. It is riveted to the frame. Drill out the head of the rivet and then use a cold chisel to pop off the rivet head.

In regard to if you can install a rear mount tank without removing the bed..... thinking maybe you are in over your head?
 
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