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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
https://www.c10trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=240&pictureid=1546

The title says it all!!

I'm putting my 1966 LWB Fleet body onto a GMT415 (1994 Blazer/Tahoe) chassis, making a Vortec powered, 4WD '66 4x4.

I currently have pulled the front clip and all doors to lighten the body for removal. Still need to pull the steering column, booster/master cylinder, seat and Vortec cpu for reuse. Once the body is off, I can start designing the "stretching" of the 'Hoe chassis and body mounts.

I need the assembly manuals for both trucks, but waiting for work to start back to buy these......unless any of you good folks have the frame drawings for the 1966 LWB C10 and a 1994 GMT415 (2 door, 4WD Tahoe/Blazer).

Let me know your thoughts please.

The best to you all!
 

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Should be an interesting project. Look forward to seeing the build pictures along the way. beer
 

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Should be a cool project,

I put a 56 truck body on a 79 frame about ten yrs ago, worked out pretty good.

Looking forward for some pics as it progresses

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Things move slow at times. I've had a lot going on. I finally have the Hoe's chassis stripped of everything I want and the body is ready to be lifted off. I lucked out; a guy with our home builder wants to buy all the parts and body. We're all going to gather the weekend after Easter to pull the body off. I told him to bring 4 friends and a trailer. Seems like a good kid, I won't charge him much.

I'll post some pictures once the chassis is exposed. I will be preparing it for a 13" "stretch" to fit the LWB fleetside body.
 

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We`re watching this Tejas, take lots of pics...beer
 

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Are you sure you have a 1994? Vortec fuel injection or CSFI (Central Sequential Fuel Injection) didn't come on Chevy V-8's until 1996. In 1994 you would have had throttle body fuel injection. Minimal difference in most regards but fuel lines, exhaust etc. will be different and clearances will be different. Maybe not a problem, but inaccurate information can cause problems. Don't ask me how I know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Evan's C10,

WTF? That second to last sentence in your post is a little douchy, don't you think? Especially when you know absolutely no facts about my vehicle. Just saying...

The term of Vortec is one of the easiest terms to confuse in GM terminology, which is really saying something. This is primarily because of many trucks and vans in the mid 80s having the word VORTEC stamped somewhere on the intake manifold or piping. This is based on the TBI engines that preceded the GEN III shortblocks, which used cylinder heads known for a terminology known as swirl vane. The use of this vane in the cylinder head maximized flow with a vane like machined stamp in the bowl under the intake valves. Designed for low end torque and decreased emissions, don’t confuse this with your 1996+ Vortec engine. These versatile Vortec engines came in basically everything that flew under the GMC banner that was a truck, suv or full size van.

I'll be seeing it this weekend and will grab that engine number for you. We'll be lifting the body off, so it should give me easy access to the block and numbers.

Tejas

My truck is a '94 2-door GMT415. It's the last year of the Blazer. It doesn't have the traditional differential type front axel, but the more modern independent 4x4 suspension as found on the later Tahoes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got up to the lake but couldn't get to the engine number at the top of the bell housing flange. My buyer (and his labor) for the body didn't show, so I'll be pulling it off over the next few weekends as weather permits. It was too cold and wet this past weekend.

I did see the "GM 5.7", which I expected, but not the more descriptive serial numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry for the delay on this. I cleaned the trans mounting ridge at the back of the block on the driver's side and didn't find that elusive engine serial number......I understand now that it's on the pass. side....haha Hopefully know the engine on next trip to the lake.

Update: I got the body lifted off the chassis, rolled the chassis out and a trailer under and have it lowered on the trailer and parked next to the barn.....Anyone want any Blazer parts?

I ordered my 60-66 C10 assembly manual and found the 1994 manual online for free. Next is to start the stretch of the frame.

I'll get some pictures together on my next post.
 

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Evan's C10,

WTF? That second to last sentence in your post is a little douchy, don't you think? Especially when you know absolutely no facts about my vehicle. Just saying...

The term of Vortec is one of the easiest terms to confuse in GM terminology, which is really saying something. This is primarily because of many trucks and vans in the mid 80s having the word VORTEC stamped somewhere on the intake manifold or piping. This is based on the TBI engines that preceded the GEN III shortblocks, which used cylinder heads known for a terminology known as swirl vane. The use of this vane in the cylinder head maximized flow with a vane like machined stamp in the bowl under the intake valves. Designed for low end torque and decreased emissions, don’t confuse this with your 1996+ Vortec engine. These versatile Vortec engines came in basically everything that flew under the GMC banner that was a truck, suv or full size van.

I'll be seeing it this weekend and will grab that engine number for you. We'll be lifting the body off, so it should give me easy access to the block and numbers.

Tejas

My truck is a '94 2-door GMT415. It's the last year of the Blazer. It doesn't have the traditional differential type front axel, but the more modern independent 4x4 suspension as found on the later Tahoes.
Tejas I have a set of swirl vane heads casting number 10110810 on a 350 in my truck, the low and mid range are great, the power drops off at just over 4K, due to the ramp, they would be good for a 4x4 application, there were several head casting numbers available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice! I can't wait to have it running. I'm selling my damn "Sicko Powersuck" F250 once I get the Hoe going.

I'll try and ID the heads too with the block at next visit. I generally stay home over the holidays because of the travelers, but will visit her the following weekend.

Happy Memorial Day and God bless our fallen soldiers and their families. Pray daily for our hard working men and women of our military.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·


I finally got to the lake and exposed the elusive engine serial number. It's a 14093638: '87 to '95, 350 (5.7), could be either a 2 or 4 bolt main, could be roller or flat tappet, 1 piece rear seal, high swirl intake ports.

The Blazer has a 111.5" wheelbase. I will be lengthening the frame by 15.5" to get a wheelbase of 127". There is a section of straight frame mid-vehicle. My feeling is to cut it just between the frame cross-member and the torsion bar cross-member. It looks like a nice place to cut and span with rectangle tubing, fitting it snuggly inside the C-section of the frame and additional fish plate and reinforcements.

 

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images for frame sectioning...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a question for the great sages here.

Thinking about my build....yes, still thinking. My original thought was to increase the length of the '94 frame to fit the wheel base of my long bed, but what if I bought a short bed instead of installing the long bed?

The wheel base of a SWB '66 is 115" and the wheel base of the '94 Blazer is 111.5". That's a difference of 3.5 inches between the centerline of the wheels. Could I simply split the difference of the 3.5" longer wheel base? That's only 1.75" off center of each wheel from stock. Being a 4x4, I planned on building a bit of a body lift into this, which will help hide the difference in wheel bases.


Is this reasonable thinking or am I missing something?


Thank you,

Tejas
 

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Something to think about...get the bed and set it on the frame for a visual...beer
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Exactly! I found a decent short bed step side for $ 600. I thought that was a good price. My truck is a LWB fleet side and I really like the idea of turning it into a SWB step side.

I need to set up a guys weekend at the lake that will give me the needed muscle to put the cab and bed atop the chassis.

406Rich, thanks for your thoughts. I further welcome anyone's opinion.


Tejas
 

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Not having seen the back end of the frame....! would it be easier to move the spring perches on the frame back the amount needed...just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here's a few pics of the rear spring shackles that I had on my phone. Great idea to move them back to redeem a mere 3.5". That furthest rear body mount is in the way, but it probably isn't where I want it anyway and can be removed and relocated. I'll know more once I set the cab and bed onto the frame.

Thanks, I appreciate the input. Sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees...









Thanks as always,
Tejas
 
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