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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about start the search for a 73-87 C10 to convert my 65' to 5 lug/disk brake etc...my question is how much will I need to take from the 73-87? Will I need to take the whole crossmember from rotor to rotor or can I just take the spindles and rotors etc?

Also if I take the rear axles out of the donor truck I'm tracking that I will need to have a machine shop chop 3/4" off of them to get them to work, is there something else I'm overlooking?

I'm looking for the most inexpensive way to get this done, I'm pretty much recycling beer cans to fund my project haha...any info will help, thanks for reading. Have a good one
Tom
 

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Ok Tom, lets review this first of all changing the rear to five lug, one of three ways.
1. Have original axles redrilled for five lug pattern and buy new drums for `70 c10 ( 5 lug )

2. buy complete rear axle from 70 to 72 c10, buy the adaptor tracking bar for your truck to said rear axle. ( same total rear axle width )

3. buy newer complete rear axle from `73 to `87 ( total rear axle width wider by 1.5 inches also five lug), ( usually not an issue providing your not going with real wide tires )... but with friendlier street gearing usually 3.42 or 3.07, you`ll probably need to buy the tracking bar and rear axle pads to be welded to rear axle housing to bolt to your trying arms....

Front suspension,
1. you rob from the donor truck, spindles, calipers, brackets from any `73 to `87 c10 or up to `91 suburban all two wheel drive, buy new ball joints for `73 to `87 use you stock a-arms, also get master booster and proportioning valve from donor vehicle.

2. use entire front crossmember complete from donor truck, you`ll need to somewhat slot two bolt holes for this x`member to bolt to your frame, standard practice, grab everything else, master, booster, proportioning valve..two notes here, to do x-member swap, motor will need to come out ( engine mounts to x-member ) and replace the u-bolts that hold your lower control arms on with the newer style they are larger in size, you have to redress the holes ....

you did not mention power steering.....? and I know I`m forgetting something...anim_63
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Holy cow that is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!! I'm glad to know there are so many options.

I do plan on going to power steering someday but I have other things I want to get done first, but for future reference, if I understand correctly taking the whole crossmember would be the easiest way to skin that cat, correct? I would just need to grab basically the whole steering system from the donor?
 

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Correct Tom, grab everything ...!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One other question I thought of...will I need to replace both the upper and lower ball joints for the donor parts to work?
 

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Yes sir, top and bottom both with ball joints for a `73 to `87 c10, when you get your donor parts particularly the rotors, measure them, they used 1 inch and 1.25 inch rotors, you`ll need this info when you replace the brake pads...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update!!

Just wanted to let you all know there's still some good luck to be had out there...I scored an '87 complete truck(minus engine) with disk brakes, power steering, *new* sway bar and enough spare solid sheet metal to build the front clip twice(selling all that) and a few sets of 5 lugs wheels and other random stuff all for $350. I feel pretty good about it! Cant wait to get started! Thanks for all the guidance everyone!!
 

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Great score, now you`ve got the parts you need in one buy...! Tom there will be a few small parts you will need to buy...such as the power steering adapter plate.. without it you will never have the steering box in the right position....this locates the box up and out from the frame...either thru Cpp or Captain Fab....this image thru captain Fab, I believe this is a better unit, actually places the box in a better position.....http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/LostMy65/media/IMG_20151003_151203_zpstms1pkeq.jpg.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will also need an adapter for the brake booster correct? Does CaptainFab have a website? I Googled but all I found was other random forums that he was on.
 

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you`ll have to contact him thru the forum, and yes the brake booster plate is well worth the money...just send him a PM thru the 67 to 72 board..
 

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Ok Tom, lets review this first of all changing the rear to five lug, one of three ways.
1. Have original axles redrilled for five lug pattern and buy new drums for `70 c10 ( 5 lug )

2. buy complete rear axle from 70 to 72 c10, buy the adaptor tracking bar for your truck to said rear axle. ( same total rear axle width )

3. buy newer complete rear axle from `73 to `87 ( total rear axle width wider by 1.5 inches also five lug), ( usually not an issue providing your not going with real wide tires )... but with friendlier street gearing usually 3.42 or 3.07, you`ll probably need to buy the tracking bar and rear axle pads to be welded to rear axle housing to bolt to your trying arms....

Front suspension,
1. you rob from the donor truck, spindles, calipers, brackets from any `73 to `87 c10 or up to `91 suburban all two wheel drive, buy new ball joints for `73 to `87 use you stock a-arms, also get master booster and proportioning valve from donor vehicle.

2. use entire front crossmember complete from donor truck, you`ll need to somewhat slot two bolt holes for this x`member to bolt to your frame, standard practice, grab everything else, master, booster, proportioning valve..two notes here, to do x-member swap, motor will need to come out ( engine mounts to x-member ) and replace the u-bolts that hold your lower control arms on with the newer style they are larger in size, you have to redress the holes ....

you did not mention power steering.....? and I know I`m forgetting something...anim_63

Thanks for this info! I may get a '65, and will definitely like to convert to power disc/5-lug.

I have actually done the crossmember swap before on a '69. I had the salvage yard just torch the frame just back far enough that the brake porportioning valve was with it.
 

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Ok Tom, lets review this first of all changing the rear to five lug, one of three ways.
1. Have original axles redrilled for five lug pattern and buy new drums for `70 c10 ( 5 lug )

2. buy complete rear axle from 70 to 72 c10, buy the adaptor tracking bar for your truck to said rear axle. ( same total rear axle width )

3. buy newer complete rear axle from `73 to `87 ( total rear axle width wider by 1.5 inches also five lug), ( usually not an issue providing your not going with real wide tires )... but with friendlier street gearing usually 3.42 or 3.07, you`ll probably need to buy the tracking bar and rear axle pads to be welded to rear axle housing to bolt to your trying arms....

Front suspension,
1. you rob from the donor truck, spindles, calipers, brackets from any `73 to `87 c10 or up to `91 suburban all two wheel drive, buy new ball joints for `73 to `87 use you stock a-arms, also get master booster and proportioning valve from donor vehicle.

2. use entire front crossmember complete from donor truck, you`ll need to somewhat slot two bolt holes for this x`member to bolt to your frame, standard practice, grab everything else, master, booster, proportioning valve..two notes here, to do x-member swap, motor will need to come out ( engine mounts to x-member ) and replace the u-bolts that hold your lower control arms on with the newer style they are larger in size, you have to redress the holes ....

you did not mention power steering.....? and I know I`m forgetting something...anim_63
What about tie rod ends...will the stock 1966 work? And when setting the
front end...do I use 66 or 74 specs? Thanks...Tim
 

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What about tie rod ends...will the stock 1966 work? And when setting the
front end...do I use 66 or 74 specs? Thanks...Tim
Tie rod ends, the `63 to`66 tie rod ends are smaller on the threaded ends, they sell the dual sized adjuster sleaves or you can use the later model tierod ends, it will also depend on whether or not you use the entire drag link from the donor truck if you do then everything is the same. Spec wise when setting up the front end if you do use the entire crossmember use that year specs, if you keep the ``63 to `66 A-arms use the `63 to`66 specs..reason for that is the lower and upper A-arm control arms are steel bushed ( less deflection, more road noise, better tire wear).. the later 1970 on up are rubber bushed ( more deflection, less road noise more tire wear) so its a trade off on what you are looking for. Hope all this makes sense...note: engine needs to come out for entire crossmember swap is done, engine mounts mount to the crossmember.
 

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Tie rod ends, the `63 to`66 tie rod ends are smaller on the threaded ends, they sell the dual sized adjuster sleaves or you can use the later model tierod ends, it will also depend on whether or not you use the entire drag link from the donor truck if you do then everything is the same. Spec wise when setting up the front end if you do use the entire crossmember use that year specs, if you keep the ``63 to `66 A-arms use the `63 to`66 specs..reason for that is the lower and upper A-arm control arms are steel bushed ( less deflection, more road noise, better tire wear).. the later 1970 on up are rubber bushed ( more deflection, less road noise more tire wear) so its a trade off on what you are looking for. Hope all this makes sense...note: engine needs to come out for entire crossmember swap is done, engine mounts mount to the crossmember.
Hope this is not too much to ask but where I live mostly young girls work in parts stores...I am assuming I would need the outer larger tie rod end on both sides to connect to the 73 up spindles. I try to use moog if I can...would you know the part number of the dual sized sleeves and the outer ends....I have already ordered the rear axles and the 2 inch lowering blocks....my plan is to use torque thrust II 7 inch on front standard offset and 8 inch on back..still not sure if I need 3 3/4 or 4 1/2 back spacing...my tires are 275/6015 T/A Radials.....thanks...Tim
 

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Hope this is not too much to ask but where I live mostly young girls work in parts stores...I am assuming I would need the outer larger tie rod end on both sides to connect to the 73 up spindles. I try to use moog if I can...would you know the part number of the dual sized sleeves and the outer ends....I have already ordered the rear axles and the 2 inch lowering blocks....my plan is to use torque thrust II 7 inch on front standard offset and 8 inch on back..still not sure if I need 3 3/4 or 4 1/2 back spacing...my tires are 275/6015 T/A Radials.....thanks...Tim
Tim here is the Adjusters from POL...https://www.performanceonline.com/1...usting-Sleeves-For-DISC-BRAKE-CONVERSIONS-Pr/
as far as the Back spacing, GM 6 lug rallies have a 4.0 back space should be good to go..the other wheels I used to have were slot mags and these were 8.5 wide rims with 4.0 backspace photos for comparison
 

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You don't have to remove the engine for a entire crossmember swap. You only have to rig some way to support the front of the engine. I have used a small chain stretched between the frame rails and a chunk of rubber between the chain and harmonic balancer. A ratchet strap would work also. Possibly cut some two by four to fit between the frame rails. anything to support the front of the engine.
 
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