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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I’m totally New here so please bear with me. ive got a 72 shortbed with leafsprings that i want to lower more and get better handling. Truck currently had a flip kit with re-arched leafs, drop spindles and coil in the front. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge on switching to Trailing armss with coil overs? Was looking at conversion kits front and back from CPP which on paper seems like a good way to go. Went to an alignment shop and was basically talked out of it saying I wouldn’t get the performance and handling that I wanted and would have clearance issues with the control arms. Not sure if this was just an old-school man set in his ways, or sound advice. His suggestion was to just get a shorter coil up front and and sway bars stating it would be about the same for way less money. Also looking to upgrade steering box. What I’m looking for is a ride I can feel confident in the canyon with a lower center of gravity And excellent handling in the corners. Any help would be appreciated thank you
 

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Dont listen to the old fool,the truck arm is better.
Look into no limit engineering they have some cool stuff for these trucks,get there panhard bar kit.
Give rob a call he'll hook you up right
 

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I just put the entire QA1 trailing arm/coil over system on my 70 c10. I already had a trailing arm suspension so I can’t speak to converting from leaf springs but I can tell you if you do a little research the trailing arm suspension is far superior to the leaf springs. And I don’t believe the conversion is that difficult. Trailing arms or leaf springs, if you’re putting all new on to lower it you’re already tearing everything apart, may just be a couple extra steps to convert from the leaf springs.

I live about 20 mins from Summit Racing and almost always buy everything there. Obviously because they have just about everything, it’s almost impossible to beat there prices, and ease of return.

However, in this situation, I bought the entire QA1 set up, including front and rear sway bars, Wilwood drop spindles, and Wilwood disc brakes for all four corners from a guy out west named Richie Davis.

He was willing to work with me on the price and was just a great, easy guy to work with.

COMPLETE QA1 COILOVER KIT WITH SWAY BARS- $4175

He saved me well over $1000 on everything.

I know it’s not cheap by any means but too many times I haven’t done exactly what I wanted the first time, ended up having regrets and cost me more time and money in the long run making the changes to get exactly what a want.

QA1’s set up is awesome. Drives great and has a ton of adjustability. I would recommend giving Richie a call and see what he can do for you.

Richie Davis, 775 848-9860, www.goracin.com

Couple things to keep in mind if you do this. It is a bigger pain in the rear than the instructional videos lead you to believe. Mostly because there are a TON of frame rivets that need to be removed and if you intend on setting up your suspension on the lowest setting, as I did, you’ll need to reroute your exhaust and tuck it up into the frame. Which often means modifying or replacing both the transmission cross member and trailing arm crossmember. But if you have a leaf spring set up you’re going to need to get a trailing arm cross member anyways.

I had about a total of 80 body rivets I had to remove and they can wear you out.

Again, it’s a big job but the average guy can do it, and I am definitely just the average guy. Just be prepared for how much is involved. If you have a lift, which I don’t, it will definitely make the job easier. And I do have pretty good quality tools, but they’re not all professional level. Like my air hammer for instance, the hammer itself is professional grade, Matco, but my compressor is a little under powered for running it as efficiently as it should. Maybe your setup is better than mine and will make things a little easier for you.

If you need the crossmembers check out www.tinworksfabrication.com. Super quality work and they are 3 piece units. Make them easy to install and much easier to remove if you ever need to and their prices are very reasonable for other comparable quality crossmembers I looked into.

Trust me, I did a lot of research, homework, and planning before I started this project. This set up and these 2 companies I dealt with were by far my best options for what I wanted.

Sorry for the super long post, just wanted to share my experience and what I learned doing this. The research itself can be very time consuming and I always appreciate someone sharing what they’ve learned if they’ve already put all the time and energy into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for sharing the info. I have a feeling in the end ill wish i wouldve gone for it if im to keep the leafs. Taking it step by step, just ordered some wherls and tires and will work on suspension beginning of the new year. I also have no lift, and minimal tools, so sure itd take some time and patience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just put the entire QA1 trailing arm/coil over system on my 70 c10. I already had a trailing arm suspension so I can’t speak to converting from leaf springs but I can tell you if you do a little research the trailing arm suspension is far superior to the leaf springs. And I don’t believe the conversion is that difficult. Trailing arms or leaf springs, if you’re putting all new on to lower it you’re already tearing everything apart, may just be a couple extra steps to convert from the leaf springs.

I live about 20 mins from Summit Racing and almost always buy everything there. Obviously because they have just about everything, it’s almost impossible to beat there prices, and ease of return.

However, in this situation, I bought the entire QA1 set up, including front and rear sway bars, Wilwood drop spindles, and Wilwood disc brakes for all four corners from a guy out west named Richie Davis.

He was willing to work with me on the price and was just a great, easy guy to work with.

COMPLETE QA1 COILOVER KIT WITH SWAY BARS- $4175

He saved me well over $1000 on everything.

I know it’s not cheap by any means but too many times I haven’t done exactly what I wanted the first time, ended up having regrets and cost me more time and money in the long run making the changes to get exactly what a want.

QA1’s set up is awesome. Drives great and has a ton of adjustability. I would recommend giving Richie a call and see what he can do for you.

Richie Davis, 775 848-9860, www.goracin.com

Couple things to keep in mind if you do this. It is a bigger pain in the rear than the instructional videos lead you to believe. Mostly because there are a TON of frame rivets that need to be removed and if you intend on setting up your suspension on the lowest setting, as I did, you’ll need to reroute your exhaust and tuck it up into the frame. Which often means modifying or replacing both the transmission cross member and trailing arm crossmember. But if you have a leaf spring set up you’re going to need to get a trailing arm cross member anyways.

I had about a total of 80 body rivets I had to remove and they can wear you out.

Again, it’s a big job but the average guy can do it, and I am definitely just the average guy. Just be prepared for how much is involved. If you have a lift, which I don’t, it will definitely make the job easier. And I do have pretty good quality tools, but they’re not all professional level. Like my air hammer for instance, the hammer itself is professional grade, Matco, but my compressor is a little under powered for running it as efficiently as it should. Maybe your setup is better than mine and will make things a little easier for you.

If you need the crossmembers check out www.tinworksfabrication.com. Super quality work and they are 3 piece units. Make them easy to install and much easier to remove if you ever need to and their prices are very reasonable for other comparable quality crossmembers I looked into.

Trust me, I did a lot of research, homework, and planning before I started this project. This set up and these 2 companies I dealt with were by far my best options for what I wanted.

Sorry for the super long post, just wanted to share my experience and what I learned doing this. The research itself can be very time consuming and I always appreciate someone sharing what they’ve learned if they’ve already put all the time and energy into it.
I just put the entire QA1 trailing arm/coil over system on my 70 c10. I already had a trailing arm suspension so I can’t speak to converting from leaf springs but I can tell you if you do a little research the trailing arm suspension is far superior to the leaf springs. And I don’t believe the conversion is that difficult. Trailing arms or leaf springs, if you’re putting all new on to lower it you’re already tearing everything apart, may just be a couple extra steps to convert from the leaf springs.

I live about 20 mins from Summit Racing and almost always buy everything there. Obviously because they have just about everything, it’s almost impossible to beat there prices, and ease of return.

However, in this situation, I bought the entire QA1 set up, including front and rear sway bars, Wilwood drop spindles, and Wilwood disc brakes for all four corners from a guy out west named Richie Davis.

He was willing to work with me on the price and was just a great, easy guy to work with.

COMPLETE QA1 COILOVER KIT WITH SWAY BARS- $4175

He saved me well over $1000 on everything.

I know it’s not cheap by any means but too many times I haven’t done exactly what I wanted the first time, ended up having regrets and cost me more time and money in the long run making the changes to get exactly what a want.

QA1’s set up is awesome. Drives great and has a ton of adjustability. I would recommend giving Richie a call and see what he can do for you.

Richie Davis, 775 848-9860, www.goracin.com

Couple things to keep in mind if you do this. It is a bigger pain in the rear than the instructional videos lead you to believe. Mostly because there are a TON of frame rivets that need to be removed and if you intend on setting up your suspension on the lowest setting, as I did, you’ll need to reroute your exhaust and tuck it up into the frame. Which often means modifying or replacing both the transmission cross member and trailing arm crossmember. But if you have a leaf spring set up you’re going to need to get a trailing arm cross member anyways.

I had about a total of 80 body rivets I had to remove and they can wear you out.

Again, it’s a big job but the average guy can do it, and I am definitely just the average guy. Just be prepared for how much is involved. If you have a lift, which I don’t, it will definitely make the job easier. And I do have pretty good quality tools, but they’re not all professional level. Like my air hammer for instance, the hammer itself is professional grade, Matco, but my compressor is a little under powered for running it as efficiently as it should. Maybe your setup is better than mine and will make things a little easier for you.

If you need the crossmembers check out www.tinworksfabrication.com. Super quality work and they are 3 piece units. Make them easy to install and much easier to remove if you ever need to and their prices are very reasonable for other comparable quality crossmembers I looked into.

Trust me, I did a lot of research, homework, and planning before I started this project. This set up and these 2 companies I dealt with were by far my best options for what I wanted.

Sorry for the super long post, just wanted to share my experience and what I learned doing this. The research itself can be very time consuming and I always appreciate someone sharing what they’ve learned if they’ve already put all the time and energy into it.
Went ahead and got he complete qa1 conversion kit definitely a few extra steps involved. Need to locate rear bump stop location as the leafsprings setup is different. Qa1 template lines up to those 2 holes so trying to find the measurement. Also need to remove leafsprings perch and weld on trailing arm axle pads. Hoping someone knows the stock placement and angle for the pads , no luck so far. Will probably just have to mark up the whole rear set up and figure out where it sits. If you do by chance have any of those measurements or info would be greatly appreciated
 
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