Chevy C10 Truck Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got my '60 suburban Friday and I'm starting to go through it so I can try to fire it up. The problem is it sat 15yrs and I'm sure over that time it developed wiring issues that are unknown yet. When looking around, I see wires strewn here and there, plugs cut, etc.

From factory this came with a 283, it now has a 350 with turbo 350 tranny. It appears an aftermarket turn signal has been installed at some point, not sure what else. It also apparently has a 62+ model year hood on it.

I guess I'm trying to debate is it worth buying a complete harness for this year and starting from scratch so she's back together correctly or if I just start buy new pigtails when needed, maybe a generic fuse block and start from scratch. I'd like the wires to be as hidden as possible, so I end up with a very clean engine compartment, etc.

I'm probably jumping the gun a bit, but I just know I'll be running wires to get her going and don't want to do stuff more than necessary. It seems to me with all the mods over the years a new harness is going to have stuff I don't need as well as not having stuff i do need.

The lighting should be straight forward and I've wired plenty of trailers, so that's no concern. I believe the start key is aftermarket and that begs why are there two pushbuttons on floor left of break pedal. I know one is dimmer switch. I can't recall what other might have been. Some have suggested push to start button, but I thought that would be right of gas pedal and not sure if '60 had that....though it would be cool I think.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Brian, the wiring harness can be bought in sections from Ecklers, or you can buy the best of the best complete with all the plug ins and with the upgrades already in place pricey but very good wiring and parts from http://www.americanautowire.com, check out their sites for a informed decision..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll look at both. Figured the parts and pieces might be the easiest to start tackling it slowly. Main goal is to get it road worthy and street legal and then worry about the rest. If it turns into a huge project, I know I'll loose interest and get carried away....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I plan to do the same soon on my 64, simple as can be

Right now I have wires going to nothing and it looks ridiculous

I vote to start from the battery and ignition switch start fresh, only run what we need and keep it clean

Post pics and I'll do the same, I think once we get into it it won't be that bad but thinking about rewiring every light turn signal etc seems daunting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I plan to do the same soon on my 64, simple as can be

Right now I have wires going to nothing and it looks ridiculous

I vote to start from the battery and ignition switch start fresh, only run what we need and keep it clean

Post pics and I'll do the same, I think once we get into it it won't be that bad but thinking about rewiring every light turn signal etc seems daunting
Sounds like a plan. I need to research a fuse block in which I can run things to and trap off of.

I got an old battery charged and tried to get the engine to turn over, but starter isn't kicking in. I have headlights, horn, oil pressure light and the battery gauge seems to work. That is all for now.

If you find something let me know. Maybe I will find a factory diagram and then eliminate what format need to be there and add what I'm adding.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Maybe this will help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rich, that picture is much clearer than the others I've found, so yes it helps a bunch. Thanks!

I'm hoping to find a fuse block soon and start going with this. For sake of doing anything drastically wrong and to aid anyone else, I'll try to keep this updated as I go.

I'm currently debating making my own battery cable vs buying a premade or stacking cables. I like the idea of one terminal end that splits off. One going to starter, the other to a terminal block. My other thought is to purchase a ford relay and move the connections to it, even though I'm informed that basically just puts two relays into the mix, but it keeps any constant voltage from being near the exhaust and it makes wiring up the starter much easier. Thoughts?

The other thing I'm debating is two separate fuse blocks, maybe 3. One will possibly go into the engine bay and control the engine and basically anything with constant 12v power. The 2nd I'd likely place under the dash where the original went and have it control the switched accessories. If I do a 3rd it will be a heavy duty one to control extra, what I'll call 'luxury items'. Things like any amps/stereo equipment with large power needs, a possibly invertor, an alarm and 12v accessories, like USB/power ports depending if I add many. My '03 burb has a bunch and they all seem to come in handy at some point.

The way I see it I need about 4-6 circuits that always need constant power. I then need about 5-6+ for switched power.

FYIW....just found this and am thinking of going with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Systems-Blade-Fuse-Blocks/dp/B00WM2MWQ4/ref=pd_sbs_263_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01BXTXV1Q&pd_rd_r=DCY81M77XT7BAD7DH1J5&pd_rd_w=ziK7i&pd_rd_wg=rebZi&refRID=DCY81M77XT7BAD7DH1J5&th=1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If I do two main blocks, this is excluding anything high power like amps, etc.

My thought, and it appears fairly balanced, is putting a constant power panel on the engine side of firewall, then putting a 2nd switched on on the interior firewall side.

Here is the current brain storm:
Engine compartment side-
Ignition 10amp
Headlights 30amp
Stop 20amp
Dome Lights & Hazard 20amp
Horn 20amp

For the interior side-
Turn Signals 15amp
Dash Lights/Gauges 20amp
Wipers 15amp
Heat/possible a/c 30amp
Radio 30amp

What I'm a bit unsure about at this stage is do I need a small panel when I switch over to HEI ignition? If so I might get and start that wiring now while I'm at it. Reason I ask is that some diagrams list about 3 items on an Ignition side of a bus bar/panel and it is separate from the switched and unswitched items.

I'm also a bit confused on the alternator wiring and if it needs to go to a panel. Currently, I appear to have a 3 wire alternator, but I think only one wire goes anywhere, the other two are cut. I'm excluding the wire to the battery as one of the 3 wires of course. I just haven't searched that diagram yet.

I've also noted each of the panels I'm looking at are rated 100amp max and I'm sitting at about 110amps listed for the Engine side panel. Not sure if the ignition really goes there or not and if it's ok to have more amps worth of fuses than the panel is rated at considering they won't all be at peak at all times. For instance a house with a 200amp panel probably has 300amps worth of breakers installed. Am I correct in thinking a 100amp fuse panel just needs to be protected by either a 100amp breaker/fuse/link?

Thanks, I'm getting my diagram done, just trying to insure I'm safe!! ...and then I can start ordering parts.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Here`s the alt conversion schematic,
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Yes...note there is difference is between the gauge and idiot light dash assembly in the harness.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top