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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happy Monday To All,

Wanted to know were you guys are getting your front steering rebuild kits from these days.

I know the usual suspects like your local auto parts store, Ebay but wanted to find out about past experiences with CPP and some of the other aftermarket brands for a full front end suspension rebuild kit and any pros or cons with certain vendors

Would love to hear the feedback. Thanks :)

Tony
 

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I just rebuilt my 65 C10 with the rebuild kit and other parts from Performance Online.

If you plan on doing this...For the Love of GOD get a small grinder from Harbor Freight or what have you to cut the rivets off on the upper ball joints!! It took well over an hour to hammer off the 4 rivets on the passenger's side and I smacked the crap out of my left hand enough that it was bruised for over a week. Along with all that banging, if you leave the upper A-Arm on the truck while beating the rivets to death, you will get a lot of bounce which reduces the impact, and it will also make your ears ring like a banshee is screaming in your ears. Mine were screwed up for a few weeks...wear ear plugs!

With a grinder, 5 minutes and the driver side rivets were history...Also, if you are replacing the rag joint, it is riveted as well, making the grinder my absolute best friend on this job.

Another thing, Get some good penetrating fluid...spray the crap out of everything you are planning on changing at least once, then do it a second or third time just in case...It helps persuade the old stuff to let loose, especially the ball joints.

The parts I used were: (and this is not an endorsement for these parts or this company, it is just what I used and my experiences with them)

FRK6566 - Front Suspension kit - Everything that came with it was in good condition, and installed as it should. One thing, the Bump Stops...If you know someone with a press, take them a 6 pack and have them press them in. The small round ones weren't too bad. A little grease and a BFH (Big Frickin' Hammer) and they popped in after a few good whacks...The lower Arrowhead shaped ones...I tried the grease/BFH method, a BIG C-Clamp, more Grease/BFH (literally coming from center field when I am smacking this thing)...No Luck. They would ALMOST go, but not all the way. I had to take them out to my friend who has a motorcycle shop and use his press to get them to pop in. Other than that, the kit was nice to work with. All the assorted bolts, nuts, washers, cotter pins that were needed were there.

MSB6566 Manual Steering Gear Box - I had manual so I went back with it...no problems. It bolted up as it should, and the Pitman arm went on with no problems.

K6000 Manual Steering Pitman Arm - Get a new one, it really blew my mind how much slop was in the old one...but then it was also 52 years old too.

RJCXXX - Rag Joint - It will depend on the spline count of your gearbox, but the one I got went on with no problems after I ground the rivets out of the old one and knocked it out. It bolts in and you can put it on after you get everything bolted in...at least mine did.

Note for the Upper Control Arm: Behind the Control Arm Shaft are spacers to set your front end alignment. If you are going to remove them, Tape them together and label which side they go on (i.e. Pass Frt bolt, Rear Bolt, etc). Nothing sends a cold chill through you like watching them fall off and bounce around the driveway...Thank god it was only one set of them, not both sets.

UCS6372 Upper Control Arm Shaft Assembly- Removing the old ones required a BFCW (Big Frickin' Cresent Wrench), A cheater pipe about 3 feet long, the BFH and more penetrating fluid. Once you "persuade" the ends off the control arm shafts, going back was pretty easy. Make sure you eyeball the bolt holes so they are semi close to where they need to be as you are installing the end caps. The Assembly has all the bushings needed, but you might have to get some different grease zerks depending on how the supplied ones go in. The sent some 90 degree zerks and they never would go in the right direction. I had to get some straight zerks and the problem was solved.

LCS6372 Lower Control Arm Shaft - Same as the upper, except the lower shafts have a guide pin hole where they align on the truck. if the hole is the wrong direction, you won't be able to mount them without either turning the guide pin hole so it can be close enough to line up and let the u-bolts fit as they should...Ask me how I found that out...If you can, save your u-bolts. Also, the same thing goes for the grease zerks as with the upper shaft.

They offer a U-Bolt kit (CSUB6372) but they are a larger diameter than the stock ones so you have to drill the hole out bigger (I think they are 1/2 in.) Drilling the holes out was a real PITA...You have to go oversize on the hole enough to get the newer U-Bolts in. Also, they are not as strong as the stock ones, as when I went to put one it, it screwed up the threads so bad on one of them I had to use the old stock one.

That is my experience with the parts from Performance Online. Again this is not an endorsement for these parts, just my opinion...Your mileage may vary...I have pics of the operation, unfortunately I'm at work and they are at home.

Hope this helps...Good Luck with your endeavor! anim_25
 

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I just rebuilt my 65 C10 with the rebuild kit and other parts from Performance Online.


Hope this helps...Good Luck with your endeavor! anim_25
Nice write up McGyver
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
McGyver,

Great response and Ill look forward to seeing those picks minus you cussing about slapping your hand with that BFH LOL Hope your hand is a lot better.

I was just on POL's website looking at some other stuff. I remember them from eBay some years ago. Looks like they're trying to jump up with the likes of CPP etc.. Also noticed them on a Trucks Magazine for their Tubular Trailing Arms upgrade. I feel their products are for the budget friendly and upgrades vs the big name brands charging more.

Great advice as well. You guys need to check out this guy on a 1966 C10. He's funny as hell https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqBmY3GXunY I promise you this guy will have you laughing. But, He does move quick and gets the job done if you have a torch LOL

Thank you very much!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
JonB,

How was the CPP Kit was this just the A arms or upgraded A Arms? Sounds like your method went pretty quick. Can you elaborate on how fast you got your rivets out so fast? Thanks Man
 
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