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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Years ago, I built a motor that was supposed to go into a '79 Short Wide Chevy. I told that to machinist and he made his recommendations...very respected in area.

Moving forward, I ended up never installing the motor, so I'm getting ready to go back through it so I can drop it into my 1960 Suburban. I just got off the phone with Summit Racing because I need to order new gaskets, carb rebuild kit, etc. I'm a bit worried because he acted like there was no way this motor will work well in my truck....he says it's a motor built for a car and the truck is too heavy and I need an RV/Truck cam, etc...

I'm going, hopefully tomorrow to talk with machinist to figure out EXACTLY what we did to the motor, but what I do know is he did a valve job, machined the heads, it will house a 4 barrel Edelbrock 600cfm carb. He polished the crank, balanced the motor, installed 10:1 compression flat top pistons and an isky 270/280 mega cam.

Now my thought is the '60 burb isn't all that heavy. My VIN search says 3535lbs. The GVW is only 5200lbs, so it can't be much over what I'm finding. I also see that a 70's Chevelle 2door coupe with V8 is about 3300lbs. So is this guy off his rocker for thinking my motor won't work well or am I? The 70's C10's are close to 4500lbs from what I found.

I haven't had chance to read the header section, but I asked the summit racing guy and he pointed out a shorty header, which is all he said that will work in the truck. I'm also wondering if that's because he said I need a truck motor and not a car motor. He said I won't have any power until about 2500rpms based on my setup.

I suppose if I need to change cams, I can, but don't want to get too carried away changing stuff if I don't need to.
 

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I think your engine will work fine. I'd at least give it a try. Changing a cam is not hard and can be done in the car, truck, what ever. Why do something you don't have to
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think your engine will work fine. I'd at least give it a try. Changing a cam is not hard and can be done in the car, truck, what ever. Why do something you don't have to
I AGREE, just curious what gives. He seemed you understand the basics of the engine she what I have engine wise, but I think he fails to understand the purpose and the weight of vehicle.

I've seen others with performance cams....At least what I took as performance.
 

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I believe summit is in reference to the cam is all. cam dosen`t come into play til about 2500 to build power, as Charlie said leave it til its running and you`ll know if its too much ( not having any low end) power.
 

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Compression

While FT pistons are in 10-1 350s so are 64 cc heads. A 79 model 350 has the Crack prone 76cc 624 castings good for about 9-1. The last 64 cc heads were used in 1970 production until 1987.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just left the machinist and he reviewed everything and said he strongly believes this is just 9:1 pistons, because to be much higher, I'd likely have needed the dubble hump corvette heads, which I don't have. Not sure why the 10:1 is in my head, but it's there and it's hard to shake!

Never-the-less I got a new gasket kit, some additive for the oil to help break in cam and some cam lube for the lifters. He said oil it well, change the gaskets and put it back together and run it. I'll be testing the valves out later this week and if any question, I'll let him pull them apart and clean it up and put back together.

Next is finding a fuel pump and probably going through the carb.

Another question I have is, what would everyone suggest on things like fuel pump, alt, water pump, etc....I still have the ones that were working 20yrs ago when I pulled the motor, should I use those as cores and buy new or give them a shot? Is there a better cooling water pump out there that might be a good choice? Also, what about themostat...what is a good range to buy?

I'm hoping to start putting this together tomorrow night...I think I'm going to order the POR15 engine and go with Chevy Red and then black out the pulley's and such.
 

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Just left the machinist and he reviewed everything and said he strongly believes this is just 9:1 pistons, because to be much higher, I'd likely have needed the dubble hump corvette heads, which I don't have. Not sure why the 10:1 is in my head, but it's there and it's hard to shake!

Never-the-less I got a new gasket kit, some additive for the oil to help break in cam and some cam lube for the lifters. He said oil it well, change the gaskets and put it back together and run it. I'll be testing the valves out later this week and if any question, I'll let him pull them apart and clean it up and put back together.

Next is finding a fuel pump and probably going through the carb.

Another question I have is, what would everyone suggest on things like fuel pump, alt, water pump, etc....I still have the ones that were working 20yrs ago when I pulled the motor, should I use those as cores and buy new or give them a shot? Is there a better cooling water pump out there that might be a good choice? Also, what about themostat...what is a good range to buy?

I'm hoping to start putting this together tomorrow night...I think I'm going to order the POR15 engine and go with Chevy Red and then black out the pulley's and such.
If you are looking for better series of heads, any of the GM vortecs, "Look for casting number 12558062, or casting number 10239906", the 906 casting not as good as the 062`s but if your not racing its not an issue, the heads are not compatible with any cam over 450 lift period..also these are thin wall castings, but give 30 horse increase right out of the box, their CC`s 65 for info.. this will also change the intake bolt pattern...( new intake)...Water pump and fuel pump is a crap shoot, although water pump may still be good. Temp stat is normally at 180 but depends on whether or not you have a shroud and radiator size.
 

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I agree with Rich,for good power go with the Vortecs.They will have to be modified to work with that cam,but the added expense is well worth it.Now as for the cam,several things come into selecting a cam.What will you use your truck for,a stump puller or mostly highway driving?What trans will you be using?what is your rear gear ratio and tire height?This will determine what rpm range you will be running and cams are designed for peak torque and horse power within a given rpm range.An example,my truck with basically the same engine build as yours although the cam I am now using is slightly smaller but very close,od trans,3.08 gears,and 29 inch tall tires was terrible at 60 mph in OD.Also with a\c on and stock converter idle was a problem.I added 3.73 gears a 2200 converter and an idle solenoid,them made some carb and timing adjustments and the truck became a real pleasure to drive.So in other words total combination and desired use should determine the cam selection as well as the carb
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you are looking for better series of heads, any of the GM vortecs, "Look for casting number 12558062, or casting number 10239906", the 906 casting not as good as the 062`s but if your not racing its not an issue, the heads are not compatible with any cam over 450 lift period..also these are thin wall castings, but give 30 horse increase right out of the box, their CC`s 65 for info.. this will also change the intake bolt pattern...( new intake)...Water pump and fuel pump is a crap shoot, although water pump may still be good. Temp stat is normally at 180 but depends on whether or not you have a shroud and radiator size.
At this stage the only reason I'll swap heads is IF something is terribly wrong with mine, but that doesn't appear likely. Rather than spend $500-$1000 on new heads, I'd rather stick that elsewhere in this truck for now.

You mention 'not compatible with any cam over 450 lift period.' I'm taking that as cam lift, not valve lift. My cam specs sheet says .323 Cam Lift, .485 Valve Lift. I'm trying to see if I can figure out what RPM's that cam kicks in at, because the tranny guy said to get a stall converter to match. I have written down Mild Converter 2200-2500 and to advance the timing 4* at the chain. I'm sure i did that last part, but I'll be sure to check.

Sure is fun trying to relearn what you did 20 yrs ago!!

Is there an easy way to test a water pump? Just spin it and listen for any bearing noise? I'll likely just replace both and go down the road!

As for temps, the previous owner said it ran hot as it doesn't have a shroud and the fan sits a decent distance from the fan. I plan on looking into a spacer to bring the fan closer and seeing about figuring out a shroud. Electric Fans are also an option, but doubtful anytime soon. I'm going to pull the thermostat out and I'll replace it with 180* thermostat to start with.

I'll have the alt and starter tested. One thing I'm trying to decide is does it matter which side the alt goes on. It's on the passenger side of the current motor in truck, but I believe it went on the driver side of the replacement. Passenger side puts it closer to the batter, which seems cleaner for wiring.

So much to relearn and figure out! Ordered a book on Amazon about rebuilding 350's should be here tomorrow, so it'll be good read to catch back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I agree with Rich,for good power go with the Vortecs.They will have to be modified to work with that cam,but the added expense is well worth it.Now as for the cam,several things come into selecting a cam.What will you use your truck for,a stump puller or mostly highway driving?What trans will you be using?what is your rear gear ratio and tire height?This will determine what rpm range you will be running and cams are designed for peak torque and horse power within a given rpm range.An example,my truck with basically the same engine build as yours although the cam I am now using is slightly smaller but very close,od trans,3.08 gears,and 29 inch tall tires was terrible at 60 mph in OD.Also with a\c on and stock converter idle was a problem.I added 3.73 gears a 2200 converter and an idle solenoid,them made some carb and timing adjustments and the truck became a real pleasure to drive.So in other words total combination and desired use should determine the cam selection as well as the carb
The entire purpose of this truck is to cruise around town and if I want to stomp on the gas, I want the tires to break loose!

As of now the trans will be a turbo 350. I'm entertaining the idea of a swap, but it'd have to be a direct swap in length as I don't want to build a new drive shaft, but OD would be nice. I'm hoping to figure out the gearing of the rear diff tonight, best guess is 3.73 or 4.11 w/ Posi.

Tire height is another thing I'm actively trying to figure out. Right now i'm running 15" rims, probably 9" wide, but not certain. I'll likely go back with 15's, but not sure of tire size. Currently it has 31x10.5's on there, but they are too big and 15+ yrs old, they must go before it hits the road. I'm very open to suggestions....I want a bit bigger in the back I believe, possibly a bit wider and I might go a bit narrower rim up front when I make that purchase. Eventually the plan is to go with something that'll house baby moons.

The cam is designed for 2200-6200rpms per the Isky website. 2500rpm-6200 is what the person said on the phone. He suggested stock converter or maybe 2200 stall. He also said A/C, power steering, power brakes all will be fine if/when I make the switch to them.
 

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The entire purpose of this truck is to cruise around town and if I want to stomp on the gas, I want the tires to break loose!

As of now the trans will be a turbo 350. I'm entertaining the idea of a swap, but it'd have to be a direct swap in length as I don't want to build a new drive shaft, but OD would be nice. I'm hoping to figure out the gearing of the rear diff tonight, best guess is 3.73 or 4.11 w/ Posi.

Tire height is another thing I'm actively trying to figure out. Right now i'm running 15" rims, probably 9" wide, but not certain. I'll likely go back with 15's, but not sure of tire size. Currently it has 31x10.5's on there, but they are too big and 15+ yrs old, they must go before it hits the road. I'm very open to suggestions....I want a bit bigger in the back I believe, possibly a bit wider and I might go a bit narrower rim up front when I make that purchase. Eventually the plan is to go with something that'll house baby moons.

The cam is designed for 2200-6200rpms per the Isky website. 2500rpm-6200 is what the person said on the phone. He suggested stock converter or maybe 2200 stall. He also said A/C, power steering, power brakes all will be fine if/when I make the switch to them.
being as you have an eaton rear axle, wild guess its 3.90 gears ratio, you could change to a 200r4 same length as a th350, would`t have to build a driveshaft, in general same size, the mount is moved back six inches is all..
 
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