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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a bit of a debate going on another forum regarding the starter for my 350. I'm trying to get it to turn over in the truck, but so far I'm not having any luck and I'm thus going to have to redo some wiring this weekend while I try to get it going.

A little back ground, the starter in the suburban when I bought it wouldn't turn over, but I have a 2nd starter on the 350 that will eventually go into the suburban, so I grabbed it and it bench tested out ok, not sure it's great, but it at least went through the process of spinning and throwing out the bendix gear....hoping was just weak battery, but that can be fixed later. I'm trying to get noise from starter while in the truck. I pulled the old starter and can't get it to do anything on the bench, so I'm guessing it's shot. I installed the replacement one from other motor, only difference I saw was mounting bolts. I hook everything up and nothing, no noise, no power to the S terminal when cranking, nothing. With the old starter I had power to S terminal when installed. I'll admit I have a questionable wire at the ignition switch, when seems to send the current to the S terminal, but again, it worked with other starter. I'll fix it tonight and make it better.

The real debate is with the R terminal. When I install other motor, which is HEI, I know I won't use that terminal, BUT for now I have a coil, so I know I need it for now. Here's the confusion and the debate. A poster on the other Chevy forum says only wire on R terminal is for the Coil. I get that, BUT I'm sitting here looking at a wire diagram for a 1964 C10 and it shows a 20-P and a 20-Y wire going to the R terminal. The 20-Y goes to the coil, the 20-P goes to the Engine Harness Connector at Firewall. From there it seems to go to the ignition switch, the instrument cluster (Gen Tel-tale, Gas Gauge, Oil Tel-tale, and temp lamp(s)), then to the fuse panel.

If I look online, most things also say only 1 wire to R and that it's only sending current to coil when starting. I had also thought I had read it always sends current to coil.

What gives here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
In order to simplify the starter, not cranking issue. Is there any reason, i can run a new isolated wire to the S terminal from starter, unhook anything to R & S for now and test? I just want to see if the motor will crank under starter power.
 

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In order to simplify the starter, not cranking issue. Is there any reason, i can run a new isolated wire to the S terminal from starter, unhook anything to R & S for now and test? I just want to see if the motor will crank under starter power.
If you got the hot to the main post on the solenoid, just use a screw driver and jump the S terminal to the hot post. it should turn over, if not check the ground lead to the block. The purple wire goes to the S terminal, if your going to run HEI you don`t use the coil wire, you run a new 10 gauge wire from the switched side of the ignition switch or the switched side of the fuse block right to the HEI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you got the hot to the main post on the solenoid, just use a screw driver and jump the S terminal to the hot post. it should turn over, if not check the ground lead to the block. The purple wire goes to the S terminal, if your going to run HEI you don`t use the coil wire, you run a new 10 gauge wire from the switched side of the ignition switch or the switched side of the fuse block right to the HEI.
I suppose I can try the jump test, just a very tight space, I had a hard time just getting the probe in there for the volt meter to test if current was getting to it.

Am I correct, should there be another pink? wire going to the R coil? I'm using colors lightly as this wiring is a mess after an engine swap and 57 years.

Researching options to start over as we speak!
 
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