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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have any advice for the following? So I am starting on the body work on my 72 and I noticed that the passenger door has a bit of a gap towards the rear of the cab, I measured both doors and there is about 3/16 difference between the drivers and passenger's side, it looks like there were a few shims added to the passenger's side. The gaps along the front all look pretty normal, and I can find no wrinkles in the cab anywhere to tell damage, there is a patch panel welded to the drivers floor board towards the front center. I am going to be replacing the front of both sides of the cab floorboards as it has the normal rot and also the inner and outer rocker panels, is there a fix for the gap issue that I should try since I will have the floor cut up?
 

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Hi Robbo, so if I'm reading correctly, you measured the outer door skin, and came up short on the passenger door by 3/16 of an inch. That's a bit. Now it's possible that the pass door is a poor aftermarket or a re-skin not done properly.
Also not uncommon for panels from the factory to measure a very slight difference, however 3/16 is a bit more then normal.
So let me go threw a process of elimination :) I know you did the measurement and I'm not questioning, or in anyway insulting your ability to use a tape. :) when I measure panels, I go to absolute body lines ( or reveals ) and measure from the bottom up on the front of the door near the fender, and the rear of the door at the B-pilar. Now let's say 24 inches is a good start. So mark your door skin 24 inches up, and then do the same to the other door. Now you know you are measuring and the tape is in the exact place on both skins. Do this in a few areas on the outer skin. Now that you have that, and your 300% sure the doors measure different now we have to move on to the next step. Pictures would be great, and again I'm a measure fanatic, and not questioning anyone's ability to use a tape, but more then often when a worker and myself measure, I make sure on the location is exact. When we purchase new tapes, we stretch them out on our jig bench side by side to check for accuracy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry I meant to say on the cab, from the front fender to the rear of the door opening on the cab, I haven't taken the front fenders off yet but so far the gaps don't look that far out of alignment. I believe that the doors are original as the truck has been repainted and originally it was a two tone white and blue and the inside of the door has a lighter blue than the outside and some of the white on the window frame. Also on the passenger side the drip rail molding doesn't overlap like the driver side does, but there is no other sign that the cab is warped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will have to give your technique a try as I was just dropping the tape across at about the handle level and at the bottom from the front gap beginning at the front fender to the back of the gap at the cab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update, got the doors off and measured the cab just below the door hinge, the passenger side is about 3/16" larger going across than the driver side, the windshield is off by about a sixteenth of an inch going top to bottom, passenger side is actually a little smaller than the driver's side, I was a little surprised by that one as the previous owner put a gob of silicone on the passenger side, haven't done a corner to corner measurement on the windshield yet. It looks like the rockers are original but the cab corners were replaced but they did a shoddy job as one side has a considerable overlap, could not stabilizing the cab while doing repairs in those areas cause warping? Opinions on how to fix or if it could be within factory specs are welcome.
 

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Robbo, just guessing that maybe at some point in its history the truck had been on a frame rack and they had to pull the cab forward on the right side after an front right side impact accident, that would account for it.
 

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When they changed cab corners they could have held the corner in or out of where it should be. That would change the opening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
From looking at the frame and the front and rear quarters it doesn't appear to have been in a accident, but it has quite a bit of grease and dirt built up on it, I'll have to get the cab off and the frame cleaned to examine further. I took out the fuel tank and everything on the back side appears normal. The only welds that I can find are at the cab corners, the floorboards have the normal rot on them so it's hard to tell from there, there are also the cab support end caps covering the original ones. I plan on removing those and replacing them with repops.
 

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When you start taking things apart take measurements and before welding things back that's the time to make adjustments. Even if it means taking something else apart... anim_63anim_25
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Can anyone provide me with some measurements on their door frames along with where they measured from, that might help me in a starting point, I looked through the assembly manual and a repair manual and I can't find any measuring points. Thanks.
 

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I contacted a couple body shops to see if they still had there frame books which may or may not give the measurements you need. When I hear back I'll post here. anim_25
 

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It doesn't look to promising no one can go back that far.
Can you measure the opening on the good side and make the other the same. Its easy to make it to wide or to narrow when doing rockers, cab corners, or floor sections. I can measure mine if you like its a 72. but 67 through 72 are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, that would be great, I just need a reference number to compare I am hoping that your number will be close to mine. Just let me know from what points you measured from, thanks.
 

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OK Hope this helps. This is metal to metal no seals Both doors are the same the dimensions are + or - 1/8 inch. I measured across at the hinge location but from the flange. Top is 35 1/2 and bottom is 34 1/2.
 

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