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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
O.K., Guys with the 60 to 66 at least C-10's with the swing arm rearends.....Go check your U-bolts that hold the rearend to the swing arm. Ours were rusted over half way through. Replaced them with POL (performance on line.com) bolts. The rear end upper U-bolt cup acts as a rain catcher & rust will occur. Ours did ---big time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
My work & cure???

Anti-sieze doesn't replace rusted metal. Had to cut the u-bolts (air powered disc grinder) and punch out the pieces with a drift pin as the bolt shank through the trailing arm had rusted together. Cleaned out the trailing arm of rust, painted with Eastwood's rust killer, the recoated the inside of the trailing arm holes with POR-15. Put the new U-bolts in with bunches of super stiff bearing grease. Lastly, filled the upper water catch area with G.E. Silicone seal to prevent water from ever getting into that area again (acts as an umbrella). Might also drill a small drain hole in each trough. Bad design on Chevrolet's part as dirt will collect in that area, get wet, & take forever to dry, starting the rust problem on the u-bolt.

Original post===was trying to prevent any on the road breakdown for anyone.
 

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Those things can really get stuck in there.Sounds like you have the problem solved.I guess GM engineers can't think of everything(or maybe they don't want to)
David
 

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Check Your Lower Steering Column Bearing!

Love the "Lost In Space" title to this thread! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RG0ochx16Dg

O.K., Guys with the 60 to 66 at least C-10's with the swing arm rearends.....Go check your U-bolts that hold the rearend to the swing arm. Ours were rusted over half way through. Replaced them with POL (performance on line.com) bolts. The rear end upper U-bolt cup acts as a rain catcher & rust will occur. Ours did ---big time.
As the old saying goes "Your results may vary" fahne19 Really depends on what the truck has been through and where it has lived it's life.

Here in the arid high plains of Colorado cars seem to hold up pretty well. My '69 Camaro has always been a Colorado car. It still had the factory stock rear shocks and rear springs when I bought it in 2007. One of the first things I did was to replaced the shocks and rear leaf springs. Everything unbolted with relative ease.. no fuss, 43 years after it was originally assembled.

When I lived back in Ohio my Dad bought a brand new C-20 off the lot at Troutwine Chevrolet in Arcanum Ohio in 1972. Within 5 years it had rust holes clean through the body panels & the heavy duty C-20 rear trailing arms actually rusted in two and broke within 10 years.... Ohio used a lot of salt on the roads back then... I assume they still do.

Another "Danger Will Robinson" issue... The steering column lower bearing.

The upper bearing was worn on my C10 and when I went to rebuild the steering column I found the bottom ball bearing had no balls... (sounds like a personal problem). Because all the rollers in the bearings were gone the shaft was cut / worn due to rubbing on the bearing outer race (see picture below). The 3/4" thick shaft was now 1/2" diameter!

Here's a photo of the worn steering shaft. By design it is supposed to be a smooth 3/4" dia. round bar.

I have been told this is a common problem. The lower bearing is located in the engine compartment and therefore is subject to water, the design doesn't allow for the bearing to be protected from the elements and therefore the bearing tend to fails.

To repair the shaft a coworker TIG overlay welded the shaft to repair it, and another coworker machine it back down.






I did a quick Finite Element Analysis just to see how stressed the worn shaft is. From a strength factor the 1/2" shaft is only 20% as strong as the 3/4" shaft!

The Repaired Column, 4105 PSI Principal Stress


The Worn Column, 15810 PSI Principal Stress
 

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OK so you lost me on the Finite Element Analysis but I am assuming you fixed it.
I have torn down many of these trucks and that bearing does seem to be a poor design as most all of them were shot.

As for u bolts here I haven't seen the issue of serious rust causing structural concerns on them. It will rust enough to be a SOB to get loose but that is the worst cases I have seen.

My theory is any vehicle of this age should be thoroughly gone over as any part could be damaged to a point of "Danger, Will Robinson, DANGER. DANGER!" :D

You just cant take for granted the last owner did any of the stuff for you. Its not just your life at risk when you put these old vehicles on the road. I spot some rags doing 70 in the other lane coming towards me and I just think I hope that tie rod or ball joint makes it past me. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yep....

Saw a primo 50's chevy pickup in ice blue lose a ball joint on the way to Good Guys Nationals at the DFW NASCAR track last year. T'wernt pretty.

Let us all be safe out there, ya can't go over these old rides enough.
 

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I`ve had just about everything apart on mine, (suspension ) most items of question have been replaced, now its time to start upgrading again...anim_63
 

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Every things good, wife and I went on a cruise, then on a road trip, put on miles I can`t believe thought possible....! It was just a trip to my sisters in your neck of the woods, but we just kept going after we spent two weeks there, hey when your retired there`s nothing holding you back....fahne19
 
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