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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1960 suburban with 350 'strong' street motor.

The previous owner mentioned it ran hot with the 350 that was in it, but it had no shroud and the fan sat a ways back, probably on stock spacer.

First question I have is, regular water pump or should I run high flow? Suggestions on brand? I'm reassembling the New motor for the truck and I don't want to go back.

I will install a 180° thermostat, I'll also find a spacer to move the fan forward. Not sure how close it should be, so open to suggestions there as well. I haven't measured the radiator, but would assume stockish to original 283, except hood isn't original it's mid 60's style so who knows what else changed. Next is shroud, any suggestions there? I've searched summit to start and see a bunch, do I just measure radiator and find one that fits width/height?

Also, is there a preferred size radiator for this motor/truck combo? I'll measure size and figure out how many cores it has. My guess is wait to see how it works, but I also hate buying a shroud and spacer, to find out money wasted because I'll have to go larger radiator and start over.

My gut feeling it's if he was able to drive daily, it couldn't have gotten that hot and this if I move fan forward and add a shroud I'll be just fine, buy the question looms.

One parting thought...Is there any suggestion on fans? I have the stock fan that came off this motor, which is a mid 70's block. I also have the stock fan off the other 350 block. They look a bit different. Maybe I'll post pics....
 

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Lots of questions here. First you say its a STRONG motor. Any time I put in a over stock engine I go to a 3 or 4 core radiator. 180 thermostat is good. Getting the fan closer to the rad. may or may not help. You want (need) a shroud Where ever the shroud winds up you want your fan just inside it. NOT up inside just inside or a bit out. To far in it will not work and same goes for to far out. If it did run hot it was probably because of the missing shroud. The fan I'd use one with a clutch. I don't know what you have so can't comment. If I for got anything or got it wrong some one will say
anim_25
 

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Brian your truck if it was a V8 originally had a large steel shroud which bolted to the radiator support, not having a shroud will hurt, you either need to find a shroud used from 60 to 62 or go aftermarket radiator with a shroud and cooling fans...such as from Champion rad which has a very good rating, a lot of guys have used them including me...looking for images of stock 60 chevy fan shroud...
http://shop.championcooling.com/Per...960-1961-1962-Chevrolet-C10-Suburban-SKU-6062
 

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The guys (cffisher and 406Rich) here turned me on to Champion radiators and I got a sweet 2 core set-up with shroud, electric fan and relay controls for a cost less than I could have gotten my copper/lead radiator fixed for. These radiators have larger 1" cores compared to stock radiators with 1/2" cores and are very nice looking. It's not a stock look, but the cost and performance are great. I believe I paid under $450 for all and I love it. My only regret is that it's foreign made. They said that you can pay an additional hundred or so to have it made in the states, but I'm not sure that I believe that.
 

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Here's a couple of pics of the Champion Radiator I was talking about above. I just learned and attached my first pic here........that is, if I get it to work.


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lots of questions here. First you say its a STRONG motor. Any time I put in a over stock engine I go to a 3 or 4 core radiator. 180 thermostat is good. Getting the fan closer to the rad. may or may not help. You want (need) a shroud Where ever the shroud winds up you want your fan just inside it. NOT up inside just inside or a bit out. To far in it will not work and same goes for to far out. If it did run hot it was probably because of the missing shroud. The fan I'd use one with a clutch. I don't know what you have so can't comment. If I for got anything or got it wrong some one will say
anim_25
Yes, lots of questions come to mind and I really don't want to keep redoing stuff after the fact. Neither of my fans are clutch fans, guess I'll keep that as an option.

As for 180 thermo, I had another person tell me 195 is better for street use as it'll help with heating the vehicle better on cold days....hmmmm!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Found a 1960's shroud on ebay for just under $200 after shipping. I'll keep my options open at this stage until I figure out what radiator I have and how the truck is actually running. Hoping to get the engines swapped within the next several weeks, depending upon weather. I just need to start figuring my options out, plus I won't know much until it starts hitting 100*+ outside.

Thanks for the help...

Any recommendations on the water pump? I want to start getting the motor together and I'll be painting the pulley's, water pump, etc with black epoxy or maybe even por15 black, so I need to start buying these parts.

Should the water pump be high flow or just standard?
 

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Keep in mind short pump, alt drivers side, long pump alt on pass side...
 

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That's good to know. Thanks. I think both pumps are same and the alt in truck is passenger side, so I'll just get same pump as that.
I should add that is providing they have the stock mounts...
 

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MB,

If the 1960's shroud is the type that is open at the radiator, I'd pass because they aren't very efficient and air basically "short-cuts" around the front of the shroud, not "making" all air pass through the radiator. I had this type before the new radiator and my stock 327 would get hot (210 plus degrees in Texas winter) when sitting still. It looks nice and nostalgic, but not efficient.

I'd get the type that is black plastic or bakelite and it covers the entire inside face of the radiator coils......or a badass Champion set-up. 2 cents
 

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MB,

If the 1960's shroud is the type that is open at the radiator, I'd pass because they aren't very efficient and air basically "short-cuts" around the front of the shroud, not "making" all air pass through the radiator. I had this type before the new radiator and my stock 327 would get hot (210 plus degrees in Texas winter) when sitting still. It looks nice and nostalgic, but not efficient.

I'd get the type that is black plastic or bakelite and it covers the entire inside face of the radiator coils......or a badass Champion set-up. 2 cents
Texas that fiberglass unit is for a `63 to `66 such as mine, the problem with the `60 to `62 is they mount directly to the radiator support unlike the previous that mount via isolated rubbers behind the support..
 

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