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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked this up and trying to go through her to get her back on the road. It appears the brakes are totally shot as the return sitting wraps around the steering column, sure a hack, the pedal didn't want to budge, but when I really stepped on it, it went to floor and did return but nothing. Master cylinder is bone dry but looks ok otherwise.

Not sure of my long term plan, but for now I want this road worthy and safe. For now I plan on retaining the original front end, but I see lots swap them out and if a year, two or ten I decide to make a change to front end I don't want to spend twice.

With that said, any chance the steel brake lines are salvageable or should they be replaced? If replaced, can I buy these our is it easier to just make my own? I figure I'll replace all the rubber lines to the wheel, BUT if I convert later are those wasted...don't have much choice there I suppose. The bigger question is should I add a booster and ditch the factory master cylinder now? That's what I'm thinking, but not sure if that affects anything down the road if I swap front ends or go with disk vs drum. I've replaced the boosters on 90's chevy's but never from scratch, so not sure what's inclined with that swap. I'm guessing at the least I'll be rebuilding the factory master.

Also are there disk conversions for this front end?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll check that out. I suppose if I'm replacing everything it's a good idea to look at doing a master cylinder conversion.

I'll also do some research, but can I do a disk brake conversion on my 6 lugs? What's the main reason people do the swap to the later style 5 lug front ends? Seems some things I read say the front suspension on the 1960 is a decent front end, but I haven't done enough reading I'm sure.....
 

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Yes you can buy the disc brake fit for the torsion bar suspension, 5 lug was just a matter of expanding wheel choice, 6 lug you are limited...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes you can buy the disc brake fit for the torsion bar suspension, 5 lug was just a matter of expanding wheel choice, 6 lug you are limited...
That's good to know. I think for now I'm planning on buying a set of factory wheels and putting baby moons on them, so at this stage it won't matter much. I'm also considering crager ss's, but I think until I decide where the rest of he build takes me I should stick with the baby moons and some wide white walls.

As for the booster what size am I wanting? Right now I have the drums, but still consider upgrading either before driving our down the road I'm unsure. Does having disc vs drums make a difference on the booster I want to go with?

I see lots of talk about anything from 7" 9" brake booster. I think I've also read I want a double diaphragm...Is that correct?

The other thing I see is the big issue in finding a brake booster setup is due to people having a stick. I have a turbo 350, so no clutch reservoir to worry about. I've seen some Ford's have a bracket that will work along with pedal assembly and then you just find a booster that will fit under the hood.

If anyone has more on that I'm extremely interested. I'd like to start taking the brakes on this sooner than later. I'll know when I pull the wheels if it'll be soon if I do the disc conversion...If the drums are shot that's the time to do it. I do plan on replacing all the lines so the booster needs to be asap, so I can start working down.
 

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This is where it gets interesting, to keep cost down get yourself a donor vehicle or find one someone is parting out, get the booster and master from it, rear master port goes to the front brakes and front master port goes to the rear brakes. the booster rod from the pedal needs to be adjusted for length and the eye or hole that the rod bolts too needs to be lowered one inch down on the pedal arm. When and if you change to discs up front, you`ll need to add the prop valve, note not all wheels fit disc brakes, definitely not the early chevy truck wheels, only factory wheels made after `71 or custom wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is where it gets interesting, to keep cost down get yourself a donor vehicle or find one someone is parting out, get the booster and master from it, rear master port goes to the front brakes and front master port goes to the rear brakes. the booster rod from the pedal needs to be adjusted for length and the eye or hole that the rod bolts too needs to be lowered one inch down on the pedal arm. When and if you change to discs up front, you`ll need to add the prop valve, note not all wheels fit disc brakes, definitely not the early chevy truck wheels, only factory wheels made after `71 or custom wheels.
I was hoping to go the salvage route for most of it, then find a new master that will work, so I'm not sticking a used part on there in that regard. I did see that the ports seem flip flopped, but thanks for that. If I were to find a donor or salvage, what am I looking for? One Youtuber said some Fords have a bracket to hang it on that will work, but he didn't say a year, supposedly the arm and everything will work as well. I think it was a late 60's 1 ton chevy that has a booster people are using, but again can't recall if that's for auto or manual tranny.

So, if I get a booster that works with the drums, it should handle the discs ok as well? As for the wheels, that is good to know...hadn't thought about that. Are you saying if I find a '71 or later factory 6 lug wheels that I can fit the baby moons on, the discs should work? I need to recheck, but I believe she has 15" rims now, what if I find 16" factory rims (not sure if that is possible) would those fit the discs? Maybe, I'll have to look at aftermarket options as well. Can you tell me what I need to pay attention to in the wheel department to know if the discs will work?

Sorry, if I ask anything twice or question the obvious...trying to take a lot in to get her going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I guess part of my confusion along with my desire to not overspend is, IF I were to buy a complete kit, what do I do when something like a rotor needs replaced or a caliper wears out, etc....there has to be something to cross reference it to.

I realize and appreciate that the companies that put the brake conversion kits out put some leg work into getting everything to work right together and that's worth something, but I can't help but think the stuff is out there if someone takes time to research it a bit.

For example, I used to own a '78 CJ5 and if I soon learned that if I went to a parts store and asked for a Jeep Part, it was about 2-3x, if not more, expensive than if I had them cross reference it. I believe on my '78 the column was basically out of a Camaro or something similar, the coil was a ford, the brakes from something else....you get the point. Saved a ton of money once I figured that out and it wasn't because my jeep was cobbled together by someone else, it came from the factory that way.

I did see a complete kit, which isn't too unreasonable once you consider what all is there, but people are grinding the calipers about 3/8" in order to fit factory wheels on, I wonder if that's a good idea or not....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here is a link to the a video where he talks about getting a bracket, pedal rod, etc from a 1970's Ford, apparently the bracket is the same on the F150 & F250, but the F150 is the only one that will clear our hoods. He says you can also buy the booster assembly from a 1969 Chevy 1 ton as well and that will work with the bracket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzDNgcV_wb0
 

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If you buy a kit complete from say Cpp, everything that is sold to you will work on any `73 to `87 chevy C10....period...you need pads, just ask for the pads for a 1973 chevy c10.. as far as the wheels any `71 on up 5/6 lug wheels will clear the calipers the wheels have a larger circumference on the inside shoulder to clear the calipers. The kits will bolt up to your firewall with no issue...not sure as to what that bracket was from but he butchered the holes to make it work, not much strength in it anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I agree that was a hack and that matters not because I don't have that bracket. I'd consider looking for the Ford bracket, but I'm not sure I'm ending up cheaper than a kit UNLESS I get the pedal and all. I'll investigate my pedal further, not sure if it's all operational or not. One of my questions regarding it is there is a long spring that wraps the column to get it to return....I'm pretty positive that want stock.

I called another company to inquire about what I read online through there sight and was excited to learn their kit would would with my '60 wheels but I believe the cpp kit adds a drop spindles for same price as there non drop spindle. Not really sure which method is better.

I'll research cpps full kit vs just the master booster to see if it will work with disc or shoes. That's kind of the time to decide....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a set of 6 lug mags on my truck right now. I do plan on swapping them eventually, but IF I can keep them until I figure out what direction I'm going that would help in the funds department. I'll try to grab a picture, but is there a dimension I'm looking for on the rear of the wheel to know if it'll clear the discs?
 

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I have a set of 6 lug mags on my truck right now. I do plan on swapping them eventually, but IF I can keep them until I figure out what direction I'm going that would help in the funds department. I'll try to grab a picture, but is there a dimension I'm looking for on the rear of the wheel to know if it'll clear the discs?
There is but I don`t know what it is..
 
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