Chevy C10 Truck Forums banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As you may know I just picked this truck up and there are a few things I'm not really sure are what....

1) Are the doors lockable from inside the truck? There are no plungers, so I'm guessing no.

2) There's a mess of knobs and pulls on the dash, so I'm a bit confused as to what is what. My best guess is some were added later because others stopped working. I know there should be a choke, then there is a button, which I'm guessing is the horn. I know one will turn the headlights on/off and if that same switch doesn't turn on the dome, then I'm guessing there is a switch for that. Am I missing anything else that might be there? How were the turn signals originally operated, because there is an aftermarket turn/hazard switch mounted to column.

3) Was this a push button on the floor to start? If so are they hard to get to work again or is it a bad idea for some obscure reason? There are two push buttons almost identical and I realize one is for the hi-beams, not sure of the other.

4) I know there were a few other things, but I'm drawing a blank for now.....

Thanks for any heads up. I need to start tracking stuff down and it would be nice to not run in circles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,754 Posts
If I remember right the doors are lockable from the inside by moving them opposit from the way the lever goes to open them. I suppose one of the floor buttons could be for the starter it would go to the solinoid on the starter. Don't know why but could. If you could post a few pictures of the knobs we may be able to help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I'll have to try that. Only one door is working properly right now and I don't have keys. I'm hoping a locksmith can create them or I'll have to buy new cylinders.

Part of the reason I think the floor starter would be neat is it would make it difficult for someone to just jump in and take off even if they had the keys. Not many would know about that. Maybe I can figure something else out to do with it if too difficult....

I'll try to post a pic of dash and floor if they show up.

For the floor everyone says the starter button was on the right of accelerator, there is a hole there, but then why two buttons left of the brake. The far left one clicks like hi beams would have, the other seems frozen....could be a replacement.

On the dash, I'm guessing the push button on far right is horn, then next to the key would be choke, far left I'm guessing is hi beams, not sure of the middle one next to it out what might have gone in the blank as an option. It's the one next to battery meter an aftermarket choke possibly? Or does that open a vent...Just occurred to me a similar knob might be on passenger side.....it's been too long since I've been in one of these.

Thanks for helping to clarify!
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Starting from left to right Headlite switch, wiper switch, choke, and last, start button I`m assuming.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wasn't even considering the wipers....Thanks.

The fourth question was keys....can the door locks be keyed to match the ignition key? They appear to be the same blank, but I was looking at a pic online where I ordered a set of GM branded keys as I don't have lock keys. Calling a locksmith today to find out the charge.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Wasn't even considering the wipers....Thanks.

The fourth question was keys....can the door locks be keyed to match the ignition key? They appear to be the same blank, but I was looking at a pic online where I ordered a set of GM branded keys as I don't have lock keys. Calling a locksmith today to find out the charge.
if you take the tumblers with you he can cut for you cheaper than buying aftermarkets..Did you know that GM only had four different cuts during that era...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
if you take the tumblers with you he can cut for you cheaper than buying aftermarkets..Did you know that GM only had four different cuts during that era...
One locksmith wants $100 to come out and cut a key, the other said bring it in and they'd quote it. I think I'll do that.

This begs the question, what's the name of the head on those bolts/screws? Are those clutch head screws? If I buy a general set will that get me what I need?

If there are only 4 cuts, what's the chance I could buy a key cheaper?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,754 Posts
clutc head is what they are called but buy a good set or you could round out the hole they also make them as sockets too.

The Rust treatment I use is made by Permatex and it is called just that " Rust Treatment" clean off as much as possible and spray let it dry couple hours it will turn black when ready for primer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
clutc head is what they are called but buy a good set or you could round out the hole they also make them as sockets too.

The Rust treatment I use is made by Permatex and it is called just that " Rust Treatment" clean off as much as possible and spray let it dry couple hours it will turn black when ready for primer
I'll try to find impact quality then.

I have a little of the Permatex stuff, I actually just went out and sprayed a few areas to see what it would do. I'll just continue using it. Thanks! I'm guessing that would be good to spray on the roof panels if there is any question of rust up there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,754 Posts
you can use it anywhere but you mentioned silicone Don"t use that anywhere Paint will not stick to it. and it doesn't bond all that well if at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you can use it anywhere but you mentioned silicone Don"t use that anywhere Paint will not stick to it. and it doesn't bond all that well if at all.
I know silicone doesn't bond well and figured in an area that will have to be replaced it may not matter, but I suppose I should shy away. Maybe I'll buy some of that metal repair putty and shove that in the hole and mold it. I realize it will make the repair a bit hard, but i'll likely be repairing that entire piece of metal, so oh well...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
One locksmith wants $100 to come out and cut a key, the other said bring it in and they'd quote it. I think I'll do that.

This begs the question, what's the name of the head on those bolts/screws? Are those clutch head screws? If I buy a general set will that get me what I need?

If there are only 4 cuts, what's the chance I could buy a key cheaper?
The door and Ignition are 2 different keys, the ignition will be square and door will be round, it will also lock the glove pocket (box).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I recall the old square and round GM keys, but these are smaller keys, it seems. I actually bought a set of four off ebay that are similar size as to the ignition key I have, they said two were for ignition and two for doors, but they are all four the exact same blank and the ignition key does fit inside the door, it just doesn't turn. I'm waiting on a set of sockets to take a handle off so I can take it to the lock smith to get key made. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Would be nice if I could get everything keyed alike....I HATE keys. I've actually considered buying a kit for keyless ignition, but they look expensive. Might be something down the road when costs drop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If I remember right the doors are lockable from the inside by moving them opposit from the way the lever goes to open them. I suppose one of the floor buttons could be for the starter it would go to the solinoid on the starter. Don't know why but could. If you could post a few pictures of the knobs we may be able to help
No matter how I position the handle the door still appears to be openable from outside.

Here's a pic of the floor. There is a factory looking hole on the right of the gas pedal. Two buttons to left of brake.
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
No matter how I position the handle the door still appears to be openable from outside.

Here's a pic of the floor. There is a factory looking hole on the right of the gas pedal. Two buttons to left of brake.
Door handles, by pushing forward or down ( depending how the handle is mounted) it will or should lock door, by pulling up or back to unlock and open. the button on the far left next to kick panel is high beam button, the other not sure, look at the firewall side and look to see if any wires are attached and where they go to...!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A few more questions have arisen...

1) is there any sort of ignition lock out on these trucks? This again has been swapped from a 283 w/ hydrostat to a 350 with turb 350 tranny. I'm having issues trying to start it and I want to insure, I'm not missing something stupid, like brake pedal has to be pushed, etc. It seems I get power to the ignition switch, when I crank to Start, so I'm guessing the answer is no, but figure I'd check.

2) where might have the cigarette lighter been? If you look at my dash it appears the horn button is aftermarket, so I'm guessing there. Am I correct? If so, where was the horn button? On the steering wheel? I don't seem to have one on the steering wheel....

3) I have a diagram from a '64 C10, which I'm guessing is going to be very close to my 1960 Suburban, but it shows for a Generator, not a starter. Is there some schematic that shows the changes when an alternator is swapped in? Any use for the Generator gauge on dash? Any aftermarket insert that looks factory or just leave it? I'll also google swapping generator for starter and see what I get....sometimes it's just quicker to ask.

4) I'm very curious about reservoir tanks and such. Currently I have none for the windshield washer or for the radiator IF it should have one. What's the most common method to fix when these are missing? Just buy aftermarket and find a spot or is factory worth a search for fit and function?

5) I'm missing some interior panels for the rear. I found some on ebay for driver side, but I'm not 100% sure it's everything that I need for that side. Is there someone that stamps these new? Or a good source of used out there somewhere?

6) I know there was a 6th...maybe I'll think of it soon! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
#6....I remembered!!

Any suggestion on getting the spare tire back under the bed? It's apparent it went there due to the mold of the gas tank, but no hardware seems to be there so NO clue where to start!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
A few more questions have arisen...

1) is there any sort of ignition lock out on these trucks? This again has been swapped from a 283 w/ hydrostat to a 350 with turb 350 tranny. I'm having issues trying to start it and I want to insure, I'm not missing something stupid, like brake pedal has to be pushed, etc. It seems I get power to the ignition switch, when I crank to Start, so I'm guessing the answer is no, but figure I'd check.

2) where might have the cigarette lighter been? If you look at my dash it appears the horn button is aftermarket, so I'm guessing there. Am I correct? If so, where was the horn button? On the steering wheel? I don't seem to have one on the steering wheel....

3) I have a diagram from a '64 C10, which I'm guessing is going to be very close to my 1960 Suburban, but it shows for a Generator, not a starter. Is there some schematic that shows the changes when an alternator is swapped in? Any use for the Generator gauge on dash? Any aftermarket insert that looks factory or just leave it? I'll also google swapping generator for starter and see what I get....sometimes it's just quicker to ask.

4) I'm very curious about reservoir tanks and such. Currently I have none for the windshield washer or for the radiator IF it should have one. What's the most common method to fix when these are missing? Just buy aftermarket and find a spot or is factory worth a search for fit and function?

5) I'm missing some interior panels for the rear. I found some on ebay for driver side, but I'm not 100% sure it's everything that I need for that side. Is there someone that stamps these new? Or a good source of used out there somewhere?

6) I know there was a 6th...maybe I'll think of it soon! :)
No ignition locks such as the brake pedal but there is ( I think a neutral safety switch on the column under the dash, also that other button on the floor board just under your brake pedal is not factory, are there any wires connected to that to the starter...?
The knobs on the dash as going from right to left...cig lighter, ignition switch, choke, wiper switch, lights. I believe the `60 burb had a horn button on the column..
Gm started using alternators in `64 the easiest to hook up is a mid seventies units, three wire alt, I have to find the schematic for it.
if your wiper knob does not have a button in the middle to push in you do not have washers, that did not come out until `64, its integrated switch and wiper motor also two speed.
Rad overflow bottle you can hook up at any time as cheap or as expensive as you want, they did not install overflows until the late 60`s
I don`t know about the interior panels....
Whew....!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
#6....I remembered!!

Any suggestion on getting the spare tire back under the bed? It's apparent it went there due to the mold of the gas tank, but no hardware seems to be there so NO clue where to start!
If they are anything like mine there are two pieces that need to be acquired, I will have to find pics...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No ignition locks such as the brake pedal but there is ( I think a neutral safety switch on the column under the dash, also that other button on the floor board just under your brake pedal is not factory, are there any wires connected to that to the starter...?
The knobs on the dash as going from right to left...cig lighter, ignition switch, choke, wiper switch, lights. I believe the `60 burb had a horn button on the column..
Gm started using alternators in `64 the easiest to hook up is a mid seventies units, three wire alt, I have to find the schematic for it.
if your wiper knob does not have a button in the middle to push in you do not have washers, that did not come out until `64, its integrated switch and wiper motor also two speed.
Rad overflow bottle you can hook up at any time as cheap or as expensive as you want, they did not install overflows until the late 60`s
I don`t know about the interior panels....
Whew....!
So, I'm correct, they eliminated the cig lighter and went with a different horn. Wonder if this was in some sort of wreck in it's life or what. Hood is different, the steering wheel is very old, but no horn button. I see no signs of damage, but strange little things...

Maybe I'll look into a different steering wheel and put the cig lighter back. The current wheel is a bit rough and possibly cracking....not sure how bad the cracks are structurally.

My washers do have the button in the middle, there appears to be nipples for sprayers and I see some tubes that go into the washer area. That's a bonus I guess....of course for now I can't get them to come on, but that should be an easy fix.

Also, thanks for any pics you can easily find! You're a life saver!!
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top