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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been pondering whether to post this or not, but seeing Lakeroadsters and mine were the similar but a different approach and stepside vs fleetside made me post this. The tank was bought from Bob Drake..PN C-4952-9200 and a 30 ohm sender. This tank has been set up for FI, and has the baffles in place, also the standard 3/8 fuel line set up for carbs, fuel drain plug in bottom, 18 gallon. This is the animal I get to do the surgery on ....more to come tomorrow
 

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As Rich eluded to, I used this same style tank in my '65 short step side. For those interested here's a little background:

Back in January of 2009 when I was thinking of taking the tank out of the cab I researched what tanks other folks were using. Swapping in Blazer tanks seemed to be the most popular method but they hang down under the truck and are visible from the rear and side of the truck. Too me they look like an afterthought, kind of like a lot of late model SUV's you see driving around today with the gas tank and spare tires, visibly hanging from under the rear of the vehicle. I went off in a different direction, measured the available area between the rear frame rails, researched what other tanks would fit, and ended up settling on the 1949-52 Chevy Steel Passenger Car Tank.

Here's a link to the "how to thread" I posted, and a couple of photo's: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?p=88322#post88322/



The "no see 'um" tank, even without a rear bumper, and "Hot Rod" rake:
 

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Thanks Prostreet. Having admired your fabrication abilities here on the C10trucks.com site, accolades from you is high praise indeed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I`ll resume this thread now by touching on a few other tanks that will fit the 60 to 66 trucks..
60 to 62 trucks have a rear frame rail width of 42 inches to the outside, also the frame rails are thinner across, they will accept most all tanks we mention here, plus many more not researched, they will however need crossmember replacement I`m sure, some of the GMC and Chevrolet trucks also shared coil suspension vs leaf springs, not sure how the leaf springs hangers will impact tank installation if at all.
`63 to `66 trucks are all the same except frame rail measurements are now narrower, 34 inches to out side, wider rails, 27.5 inches inside frame rail dimensions.
Tanks that will fit with minimum work, but also cost a tad more.
Boyds Tanks http://www.boydwelding.com/category/products/Chevrolet
Very nice alum tank, fits and looks nice, expensive. Approx 18 gallon

LMC http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=60
Nice tank, hangs down to low for most people, install easy. 21 gallon

Dodge Challenger and Cuda tanks, 1970 to `71, the later models have four fuel vents to deal with, the filler is a rear mount (could mount behind license plate ) and sender is on the left side, you will probably need to run custom gauges with the mopar as they are 240 ohm senders. 18 gallon. Crossmember removal and replacement.

Ford mustang. `64 to`66, they fit for the most part right on top of the frame rails and use thru bolts into the top rails, they only make them in 16 gallon, filler is just below bed, middle rear. Ford senders are 99 ohm. Crossmember removal and replacement.

Tanks Inc http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...egory_id=144/home_id=143/mode=prod/prd249.htm
16 or 18 gallon, stainless, plain steel, FI setup or standard fuel line, light frame rail clearance needed, crossmember removal and replacement. No drain plug

Bob Drake http://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=C4952-9200
Same as Tanks inc other than tank filler and vent tube attached to tank, and filler is 1 3/8 size tube and has drain plug. Everything else is the same ,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The reason I went with the Drake tank is it offered me the option to drop the tank down a little further in the frame and to go thru the frame with the filler and vent tube and keeping the rear bed sill unmodified keeping the strength in it for weight caring capacity other wise you end up having to build or cut the last bed sill in half and have to box it...this is where I made a change in the install, first pic is where I had started to just cut it and was going to notch it then decided to go thru the frame entirely, there is a one inch hole there (Factory rear elect plug hole for the harness ) I just opened it up more to fit the filler flex hose, and one for the vent hose. Note first pic to show where bed sill sits completely down on frame with the angle steel 1/8 of an inch above tank. Both the filler tube and vent tube were cut down to 5 inches, lower frame rails were opened up a quarter of and inch with a 7 inch grinder with a 60 grit pad in about five minutes, cut out new thru plate for filler and welded in. The new rear crossmember was made from 2x4 seamless mild steel tubing, the ends were cut top and bottom and tapped the down with a BFH to allow the tube to slide into the frame rail, then rewelded them back up from the inside, they were also slightly notched for bumper bracket clearance, then bolted top and and bottom to frame rails, straps and top limit bars added.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The filler tube was robbed from a Geo Prism, 1 3/8 tube size, 1/2 inch vent tube, note that the vent tube comes all the way to the top of the filler tube, this will eliminate any filling issues. I decided to install the filler tube into the bed left rear corner and build a diamond plate box around it. Even with it being 18 gallon and dropped down lower in the frame rail and keeping my bed rail in place you still can`t see the tank from 20 feet back.
 

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