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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I've had my 1970 C10 for almost 2 months now and I'm working through my squawk list. I don't feel so much like a newbie anymore. I'm really happy with the C10 - it runs great, drives great, and gets lots of attention, but there's still plenty to do to get it the way I want.
The next thing on my list is rebuilding the carb (250 straight 6 with a Rochester Monojet). I have questions and am looking for recommendations.
When the engine is all warmed up, it runs beautifully - nice and smooth and no lag, hesitation or flat spots. But for the first several miles after the engine is first started, the engine stumbles and bucks badly. The ignition is a Pertronics, with new cap, wires and plugs (coil isn't new), so I figured I'd start with the carb. I want to rebuild it anyway to make sure its clean and set up correctly.
The carb doesn't have a tag, so I don't know how to identify it, but it has the correct attachments and linkage. I'd like to think it's correct (see the attached pictures). What I'd like to know - does a 1970 carb work OK without all the emissions stuff working? My truck has all the correct parts, except the diverter flap in the air snorkel the redirects warm air from the exhaust muff is gone.
Should I try to restore all the emissions stuff?
If not, will the carb work OK without it or does it require changes or mods?
Should I get an earlier carb and change to a pre-emissions setup?
Thanks.
 

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Without the diverter flap takes it longer to warm up, you might have some wiggle room in the choke, sounds as if it needs a touch more choke upon start up. I just noticed you have the vacuum ports blocked off, are you running vacuum advance on you`re distributor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The vacuum line for the distributor advance is going to a port near the base of the carb. Everything in the picture is the way it was when I got it. I want to put everything the way it should be, or the way that works best if the emissions set up is troublesome. Thanks.
 
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