Chevy C10 Truck Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I have a 1964 C10 that has a brand new 350 Create engine, and new Used a everything from HEI to a one wire internal alternator etc.. the Wiring is the original and working fine.

I've had the engine running and driving around for test runs during the break in period. I was about to get the real exhaust put on when I came out this morning and cranked her up it did a little cough and that was it. No power, even the headlights and the cab light etc.. No Power!!!!

Thought ok was it the alternator, starter, etc.. went through and checked everything. Bought a new ignition switch and still Nothing!!!

Used a brand new battery from another car and nothing. What am I missing??? This thing was running sweet the past two weeks since firing her up. Please help

Thanks
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Have you ruled out battery cables, sometime the cheaper ones will look good but broken in the battery lug area, trace your main hot lead thru out for broken or bad connection. Once years back I bought a car that had intermittent starting issues, found a spliced main hot lead from the alt, thought I had it fixed,,,same problem again, so I went back to check my work and found three more splices in the same wire and were just twisted together, just couldn`t see it for all the tape... anim_63
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you ruled out battery cables, sometime the cheaper ones will look good but broken in the battery lug area, trace your main hot lead thru out for broken or bad connection. Once years back I bought a car that had intermittent starting issues, found a spliced main hot lead from the alt, thought I had it fixed,,,same problem again, so I went back to check my work and found three more splices in the same wire and were just twisted together, just couldn`t see it for all the tape... anim_63

Thanks 406 Rich, I check for any broken or bad connections on the hot lead. I have no power whatsoever even with a new battery. I just remembered there is one hot lead from the alternator that is open and wrapped in electrical tape. Ill fix that wire, but it was running fine all this week. AArrggghhhhh

Thanks 406
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks 406 Rich, I check for any broken or bad connections on the hot lead. I have no power whatsoever even with a new battery. I just remembered there is one hot lead from the alternator that is open and wrapped in electrical tape. Ill fix that wire, but it was running fine all this week. AArrggghhhhh

Thanks 406

PS 406, My battery cables are brand new as well and my ground is on the engine block connected to fresh metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,754 Posts
If you have a test light put ground on battery and check for power down the line and the alt. you will come across something where it stops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you have a test light put ground on battery and check for power down the line and the alt. you will come across something where it stops.
Hey Guys thank you for all of the help, I found the problem a hot lead was off the alternator. Its a one wire type. Truck is running but I am trying to figure out why my battery is not charging. Uses a volt meter the battery is was at 12.2 now its down to 10 and the alternator is at 10.

Small red wire coming off the positive side of the battery cable is going to the horn relay. Another red is going to the firewall from the horn relay. Ignition I think.

Any suggestions??

I went ahead and opened up the entire wiring so I know what I have and how bad the wiring is. 90% is pretty damn good, whoever used all the electrical tape kept the wiries pretty clean.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Hey Guys thank you for all of the help, I found the problem a hot lead was off the alternator. Its a one wire type. Truck is running but I am trying to figure out why my battery is not charging. Uses a volt meter the battery is was at 12.2 now its down to 10 and the alternator is at 10.

Small red wire coming off the positive side of the battery cable is going to the horn relay. Another red is going to the firewall from the horn relay. Ignition I think.

Any suggestions??

I went ahead and opened up the entire wiring so I know what I have and how bad the wiring is. 90% is pretty damn good, whoever used all the electrical tape kept the wiries pretty clean.
Maybe when the wire disconnected itself it blew the diodes in the alternator ...pull it and take it down to your local auto parts store they can test it for you or if you can test it yourself
The easiest way to test the diode block while the alternator is still on the engine is to do an AC ripple test with a digital multimeter. Just start up the car, turn on the headlights to remove surface charge off the battery. This will force the alternator to switch on. Next set the meter to AC Volts. With the engine running put the positive lead of the meter to the "BAT" terminal on the alternator and hold it there. Then place the negative meter lead onto the negative post on the battery. If you get a meter reading of more than 1.5 Volts AC (1 1/2 Volts AC) the diode block in the alternator is bad and needs replaced. Its a real simple test that only takes a few seconds to perform. Hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Maybe when the wire disconnected itself it blew the diodes in the alternator ...pull it and take it down to your local auto parts store they can test it for you or if you can test it yourself
The easiest way to test the diode block while the alternator is still on the engine is to do an AC ripple test with a digital multimeter. Just start up the car, turn on the headlights to remove surface charge off the battery. This will force the alternator to switch on. Next set the meter to AC Volts. With the engine running put the positive lead of the meter to the "BAT" terminal on the alternator and hold it there. Then place the negative meter lead onto the negative post on the battery. If you get a meter reading of more than 1.5 Volts AC (1 1/2 Volts AC) the diode block in the alternator is bad and needs replaced. Its a real simple test that only takes a few seconds to perform. Hope this helps!
406 Rich,

So I had a time with the ignition system again lol, This morning it it happened again. No Power. So I stripped open ALL of the engine wiring harness. Well, 85% of it. Started tracing and looking for other problems.

Spoke with a friend and when I was about to hang up the power was on SMH. Then it went off after I started the engine. Decided to run the red charging wire to the starter with the battery positive cable. that must have triggered something and no its 9pm and I still have power.

That charging red wire from the alternator was going into the horn relay. Looking at older chevelles and camaros plus the wiring diagram from this forum that is the original set up. the voltage regulator is gone.

Ill check that step 406 and make sure that everything is going good. tomorrow. Need to get the exhaust on, currently running those loud green hornies turn down mufflers that are 3" and loud LOL waking up the HOA

Thank Everyone for your assistance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Maybe when the wire disconnected itself it blew the diodes in the alternator ...pull it and take it down to your local auto parts store they can test it for you or if you can test it yourself
The easiest way to test the diode block while the alternator is still on the engine is to do an AC ripple test with a digital multimeter. Just start up the car, turn on the headlights to remove surface charge off the battery. This will force the alternator to switch on. Next set the meter to AC Volts. With the engine running put the positive lead of the meter to the "BAT" terminal on the alternator and hold it there. Then place the negative meter lead onto the negative post on the battery. If you get a meter reading of more than 1.5 Volts AC (1 1/2 Volts AC) the diode block in the alternator is bad and needs replaced. Its a real simple test that only takes a few seconds to perform. Hope this helps!
Hey Guys,

Havent had to time to work on the truck today. But checked on the power and still good. Need to do the AC Ripple Test like 406 Rich stated.
Will keep you guys posted also hae to run the truck up to the muffler in the morning.

Thanks Again
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Hey Guys,

Havent had to time to work on the truck today. But checked on the power and still good. Need to do the AC Ripple Test like 406 Rich stated.
Will keep you guys posted also hae to run the truck up to the muffler in the morning.

Thanks Again
Happy its working out for you...! One other thing to consider, better grounds, think of it as a three way, engine to frame, frame to cab, cab back to engine..I used 00 welding cable with copper lugs soldered on, stainless bolts, stainless star washers, frame, engine and cab areas where you mount them cleared of paint and rust....you won`t believe the difference it makes just on starting and head light brightness...
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top