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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sorry just trying to figure out how to post pics on here. I included a few shots of my truck and Im just starting the build process. I was wonering what is the large bolt that holds the wheel cylinder in place called and can you find them from a parts vendor? My 64 Falcon has two bolts that hold the cylinders in place to the backing plate so when I started to tear down the brakes I was surprised that this bolt was holding them in place.
 

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Wheel cylinder anchor bolt Brim.....LMC may have them....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got to take some pictures but I got all my upper & lower ball joints installed. New inner & outer tie rods, New seal on backing plates and also cleaned them up real nice and painted. Had my front drums turned, cleaned them up as well and painted and installed new inner and outer bearings and seals.
New front brake shoes and spring kit on one wheel only, missing some hardware for other side but have found replacement online (Thanks 406Rich) which should be installed soon.
Next up is brake line kit to replace exsisting lines. The old ones seem to be ok but dont want to trrust just blowing them out. Then I can move on to new master cylinder (dual). Hopefully can start process of trying to start engine soon. Will post up pics later.
 

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Got to take some pictures but I got all my upper & lower ball joints installed. New inner & outer tie rods, New seal on backing plates and also cleaned them up real nice and painted. Had my front drums turned, cleaned them up as well and painted and installed new inner and outer bearings and seals.
New front brake shoes and spring kit on one wheel only, missing some hardware for other side but have found replacement online (Thanks 406Rich) which should be installed soon.
Next up is brake line kit to replace exsisting lines. The old ones seem to be ok but dont want to trrust just blowing them out. Then I can move on to new master cylinder (dual). Hopefully can start process of trying to start engine soon. Will post up pics later.
Glad its all coming together for you...
 

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Brim, while your doing brakes when you look at your backing plates where the shoes ride up against pads, in most cases the pads will be grooved from wear, if you have access to a welder weld the pads back up and use a four inch grinder with a soft pad on it and grind the backing plate pads smooth, makes for a much better brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Brim, while your doing brakes when you look at your backing plates where the shoes ride up against pads, in most cases the pads will be grooved from wear, if you have access to a welder weld the pads back up and use a four inch grinder with a soft pad on it and grind the backing plate pads smooth, makes for a much better brake.
406Rich I will have to look at old pads to get an idea of what area you are talking about. I have a welder at home so that won't be an issue, but Im not sure what you are telling me to do? Are you saying throw a tack on the body of the brake shoe and then grind smoothe?

Thanks,
Brim
 

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406Rich I will have to look at old pads to get an idea of what area you are talking about. I have a welder at home so that won't be an issue, but Im not sure what you are telling me to do? Are you saying throw a tack on the body of the brake shoe and then grind smoothe?

Thanks,
Brim
Mark not the brake shoe pad, the pads on the backing plates where the brake shoes ride against the backing plates, normally after years of use they will be grooved, you just want to fill them, then grind them down flat..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Backing Plate

Mark not the brake shoe pad, the pads on the backing plates where the brake shoes ride against the backing plates, normally after years of use they will be grooved, you just want to fill them, then grind them down flat..
Got it, geez glad mine dont look like the picture. They actually look pretty damn good compared to pic. Thanks for the tip!

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well found some of the brake hardware I needed in a box the seller gave me, just needs cleaning. still missing a small lever but ordered the kit last week and it should be arriving soon. On a side note my owners manual doesn't state that there is a lever bar for the front drums so I am assuming there aren't any so that is good.
Pulled my diff cover and cleaned up the gears, turns out in my 12 bolt rear I have 3.73's with an open diff. After it's on the road gonna take it out and build a posi for it with the same ratio over the winter if money allows.
Next up us a brake line kit, I think it's 8 pieces. Any suggestions out there for some quality lines? Not looking for stainless just OEM.
After that a dual m/c and the brakes should be done.

-Brim
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have never bought a brake line set. Instead I bought a bender and make my own. Lots less money.
anim_25
Yeah I did a few lines on my other build but with the flare tool rental I could never get my double flare to sit right. Figured better to not skimp on the lines since they are vital.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
305 Heads

Well I pulled the intake and to my surprise the lifter valley was really clean. Also I pulled a valve cover to find out what type of heads I have and from the casting #376450 it appears to be a set of 305. I'm not sure of the intake/exhaust valve sizes though. Rocker arms and rods have some slight surface rust. Good thing is I can turn engine by hand from lower pulley. Are these heads worth running on a 283?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
On a side note ordered new OEM brake line kit and got the Doorman dual M/C. Robbed my Falcon of the 600cfm and spacer to put on the 283. Hoping to get it running and on the road before end of August.
 

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Well I pulled the intake and to my surprise the lifter valley was really clean. Also I pulled a valve cover to find out what type of heads I have and from the casting #376450 it appears to be a set of 305. I'm not sure of the intake/exhaust valve sizes though. Rocker arms and rods have some slight surface rust. Good thing is I can turn engine by hand from lower pulley. Are these heads worth running on a 283?
305 heads have smallish valves, probably just right for the 283, a plus with those is they will keep the compression up on that 283 as it was originally...

Yeah I did a few lines on my other build but with the flare tool rental I could never get my double flare to sit right. Figured better to not skimp on the lines since they are vital.
the biggest issue with double flares is cutting your tubing, perfectly straight, debur the inside edge and out side edge, any imperfections will cause the end to walk or crack...I know it sounds easy on paper, with practice it is easy..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Double Flare

Did a few on the other build and I enjoyed the practice. Best way to save some dollars is to flare yourself like you said. Thanks for the advice on the initial cut. With all the other cars my friends have I'm sure Inwill get some additional practice to learn.
Thanks,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
305 heads

I've been reading up on the subject (305) heads, from what I have gathered the smaller chambers should help the low end. Wish they were power packs I was a little excited at first because I thought process they might be.Im hoping the low end will be strong, that with the 2 speed powerglide should do well with the take off. Not gonna see any strip time but will see some light to light action.
Appreciate the info, gonna run me and see how they do.
Mark
 
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