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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Other than pics, this is what I picked up site unseen. I hope she isn't any worse than she looks in the pics.

The story is she ran great prior to the previous owner loosing interest and parking her about 15yrs ago. I'm hoping I can resurrect her and get her going, but no matter what I have a 350 I built several years ago for a different project that I've been looking for a home for.

The plan is to drop her to a nice stance and leave the exterior pretty much alone...at least for now. I'll likely worry more about making the interior nice and get her running strong.

Here she is getting loaded up on the trailer....Now to try to wait patiently to see if I get her tonight or tomorrow.

Currently it has a 350, no clue what's been done to it, a turbo 350 tranny and the owner said low gear, but again not sure. He wasn't thrilled with the MPG.

Like I said for now I'm happy with the exterior as I don't have time to get into a full restore at this point. I do want to kill any rust, so wondering if I can sand it down and somehow protect any bad spots while not killing the patina, which I know is a sore subject for some. Again, I'll know more when I get her home and have a chance to look her over.
 

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Nice buy Brian, looks like a neat project, as far as the patina, to each his own, as far as preserving it all you can do is clear coat it but it will continue to eat away at it. The gearing in most of the 1960 burbs was a Eaton HO32 rear axle, most were 3.90 gearing, they do not make parts for that rear axle anymore unless you happen to find a shop that has some laying around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice buy Brian, looks like a neat project, as far as the patina, to each his own, as far as preserving it all you can do is clear coat it but it will continue to eat away at it. The gearing in most of the 1960 burbs was a Eaton HO32 rear axle, most were 3.90 gearing, they do not make parts for that rear axle anymore unless you happen to find a shop that has some laying around.
Thanks, I can't wait until she arrives to see what I have.

I know some don't appreciate the patina, I do like it, but we'll see what I can do. There will be areas I'll work on and I can get creative so we'll see. I'll likely wet sand it out when it warms up and spray some clear. Until then I'll likely treat with something, either wd40, rust killer our something. I might even clean the rust away, repair, whatever and find different spray prints to help kill block out and wetsand those down to wear it doesn't look repaired. Again I have ideas, I just don't have time for a complete restore for now.

That's good to know about the rear end....are they a decent setup or do I start looking for something else? I'm hopeful it's stayed sealed and therefore that it'll be good. What fluid do I use on those? I'll hopefully find an id plate when I get a chance to go over it.

The hauler called and said she looked very straight, there wss some cancer, but overall he sounded optimistic and said the seller seemed like a great guy. The hauler has seems to have experience with this sort of vehicle. Not only does he bring back to sell when he had no back hauls, and he knows a guy t that does a lot of old burbs.
 

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Thanks, I can't wait until she arrives to see what I have.



That's good to know about the rear end....are they a decent setup or do I start looking for something else? I'm hopeful it's stayed sealed and therefore that it'll be good. What fluid do I use on those? I'll hopefully find an id plate when I get a chance to go over it.
It may run for a while without knowing the miles on it its hard to say. You can swap any preferably `64 to `70 C10 axle under it, those were the standard GM truck 12 bolt axles used til `87, except in `71 they changed to 5 lug. the only mod will be the tracking bar as they changed the tracking bar mount positions many times over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the heads up on the rear end. We got her in my driveway about 40min ago, I've got penetral to work on lots of surfaces just to ward off any stickiness. The driver door won't open, but it has play and the latch inside seems to move, so I think something is just catching. Have to figure that out. The outside release isn't working, but that should be minor!

There are some pin hole rust spots on top, so I'm hoping I can tack weld those and get them cleaned up and sealed, unless there is a better method. Otherwise she isn't to bad. There are obviously some bad spots, but I think it's all fixable with time.

Anyone have any good ideas of ways to kill the rust that is forming on the ceiling and any other parts? I have some rust kill spray, not sure if that's what I should use or not. I'm thinking if I can find something that is in a gallon paint can, I could roll on with a 3" paint roller and let sit. I'd then wetsand it out when it warms up....thoughts??

**when i say I'll wet sand the rust stuff off, I realize if I take it off the metal, it'll start rusting again. I'm just wanting to feather it out from the paint. I'm also thinking of spraying to kill it, then try to take to bare metal, spot prime and feather that into the paint. I guess time will tell.
 

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You might want to try a spot or area, use CLR and water, use a green scotch pad, rinse with water....here`s the results..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Inside is free of mouse droppings and today I used the crl and water on the body and she cleaned up pretty nicely. Thanks for that tip. I also got the doors all operating somewhat. Windows go up and down and all doors open. I need to work on latching properly though.

Now I need to find the sliding window gaskets and get those working as one is stick in a strange position.

If weather permits this well I'll likely try to fire the engine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Replacement motor is torn down to double check everything and get old gaskets off as it has sat for 20yrs since I built it.:(

In any case I've been back to machinist and he said now just relube everything and stick it back together. Heads might need to go in to be pulled apart and cleaned, but I'll know more later. I'll start getting ready to pull old 350 out along with transmission so it can go to the shop to be rebuilt. Then drop it all back in.

The current debate I'm having with myself is pulling body of to make it easier to replace the body mounts, brake and fuel lines as well as quicker access to fuel tank. It looks sound, but I found a por15 product that seals metal tanks and stops any rust. The other benefit is I could them quickly clean the frame and underside and re-coat both with something like por15.

Not looking for show stopper, just fun cruiser....
 

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Very cool project! The CLR trick is a good idea! I would have never thought to use that. Any updated pictures?
 
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