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1959 gmc 100 lwb

88K views 112 replies 16 participants last post by  406Rich  
#1 ·
Here's my latest. It's, as the title states, a model 100 -the base model. I'm not sure how it spent it's life. There are no logos on it, but it does look like a school district truck.

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I have a friend with a '58 that is orange and it looks stock, so who knows. Maybe in those years you could actually get colors on the trucks, not just white, red and black (and turquoise). :)

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My plan is pretty simple. I bought a clip from a '76 Trans-Am that I will graft right onto the existing frame. This will get me extremely low with great suspension travel and huge disc brakes and an enormous sway bar along with easy mounting for the engine and transmission.

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I already did an axle flip in the rear using the stock one from my gasser. Not sure if I am keeping that one or going with one a bit wider. It's 60" and the trucks is 62". I am also going with a one-piece driveshaft.

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It's going to be stock inside, too. It has the original wheel with horn button and the dash is good. I had to replace the lower hinge on the driver's door. I will paint the footwells and replace some rusted metal around the hinge pocket. Stock bench seat recovered and a floor shifter for the 700R4. I have a Fenton three-speed manual shifter that I might see if I can make work for this. I don't want a newer shifter and I hate the locar style shifters.

I have the GMC for the hood and my bud with the '58 has a chrome front bumper with dagmars that I can have. I am still thinking on it because I also have a '56 Pontiac that I was going to steal the bumpers off of front and rear... or I do also have a '56 Packard front bumper that I have been holding onto since 1978! Which one? I may have to mock them up to see which one I like best. I know that the huge steel rear bumper is coming off.

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I will need to replace all the rubber and seals on the cab. It sat out (probably with the back end either sticking out or under a tree as it is the rustiest part) for who knows how many years and they are all cracked. Needs the flat glass replaced, but that should be easy.

Anyway, that's where we start...
 
#55 · (Edited)
Even with four link you`ll still need to c-notch to go as low as you want...unless your only going as low as the frame will let you...!
here`s a pic of a porter built in a 66 with the extreme c-notch, and he was`nt even down on the ground yet.
 

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#56 ·
Saw this on another forum... remove the rear spring hangers from the frame and flip them over and mount them to the top. Lowers the car about 5 1/2". Anyone done that here or know about this method. Doesn't cost anything but a rebuild of the bushings.

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#58 ·
Mike I`ve seen that several times, you might try it, its a no cost change, if it don`t work out you can always go back, when I built my `33 chevy sedan I didnot want to spend major bucks, I dearced ( flattened ) my rear springs actually 59 chevy truck springs, removed two leaves ( every other leaf ), reversed the main leaf and built shorter shackles from a trailer supply house, just a few ideas you can do....
 
#60 ·
I mocked up the flipped mounts tonight and I think it will be fine.

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Not nearly as low but I bet it will be a good driver and look way cooler than it did stock. I have some bump stops that I will put on the bottom of the frame just in case. Now to get the rebuild kits for the shackles. Anyone know how the front ones come out? I loosened the 1/2" nut that looks like it clamps the pin but it will not budge. Doesn't look like it turns like the rear ones.

In the future I may want to drop it more, this is just so I can keep on my tight schedule of driving it in April.

Next major steps are:
*Mount new master cyl pedal assembly/brakes
*Make a crossmember for the trans
*New driveline
*Rewire whole truck
*Fuel tank/lines
*New door glass (all 4 pieces are broken)
*Rebuild bench seat

Of course the rad/power steering pump/carb-dist-starter etc. on engine/wheels & tires, blah blah blah...
 
#62 ·
Mike not sure if they are the same but the ones on my 33 chevy, I pulled the nut off and drove them back thru the mount,,,
 
#63 ·
Anyone know where to get rebuild kits for these shackles? I know I saw them somewhere but can't remember where.

Got the lower plates from my '55 car put on so I have the correct shock mounts. Maybe I will try air shocks so I can have lift for loads if needed...

Had to order u-bolts as mine are a bit short. Summit had Afco ones for less than $7 each, local parts places here wanted almost $15 ea! I can wait.

Mike
 
#65 ·
#66 ·
Got new bushings for the springs. Actually new pins too. Just need to press the bushings in and bolt it back together. My u-joints were a bit short so the Afco ones I got from Summit worked out great.

I also got new rubber for front and rear glass along with new door seals. I have a friend that makes the side glass so I have to pully broken ones out and get the new ones ordered.

I think I'm going to order the speedway m/c frame mount kit. It looks good and is only $70. Then I can have the hydro boost lines made.

It's coming along nicely.
 
#67 ·
Playing with a Christmas present. AN Emerson version of the GoPro. It doesn't like indoor lighting at all, hope it's better out in sunlight. Was really foggy today so couldn't check it outside very well.

Here is a video walk around/update on the truck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4oHEdAC0Mk


Mike
 
#70 ·
Like your run stand for the engine Mike...sounds great too...!
 
#71 ·
Mike, great video ! ! Trucks coming along nicely, I like the choice of colors. Now when you say white, are you going with a slightly off colored white, or chock white. I've always favored the off like cream or egg shell when I'm two toning. Nice clear video though, what are you using ?
 
#72 ·
Thanks Rich and Steve.

The white I have is Whimbolton White (FORD) which is very creamy, looks nice with the yellow.

The camera is a knock-off by Emerson I got at Bed Bath and Beyond with a card for about $50. Works OK indoors but needs more light. Not a bad deal though.

Got a tank lined up with one of my friends in Longview. The 40gal. Suburban tank that fits between the rails. I may have to move the rear crossmember. Will post pics when I get it home.

Mike
 
#73 ·
Played a bit with the truck today. I cut a couple coils off the old weak springs and the ride height is just about perfect.

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I figure that the better springs when cut that much will be an inch or so higher.

Pulled all the original wiring out too. Got a kit from Speedway that will replace all of that. I think I am going to use new guages too, just put into the stock dash.

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#75 ·
Looks good Mike....!
 
#76 ·
I got a mid-80s Suburban tank from a friend in Longview. It looks like it will be a good fit.

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I've heard that this was a good swap so I gave it a try - kinda like the front clip - not trying to re-invent the wheel. :D It is a 40 gallon unit! The donor vehicle was gone so I didn't get any mounting stuff with it. I will have to check out the U-Pull-It this weekend...

I did have to move the last crossmember back as the tank is 35" long.

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Looks good in there. Room above and below. Need to figure out the filler location. Do I put in a door on the side - round or square? Or do I just put in a recessed fill? Or a cap/fill that is flush? What are people out there running?

I also took out the gauges and the dash piece is cool! I can't decide if I want to restore the original gauges or get a kit. Probably the latter because it would be cheaper and I can make a couple aluminum pieces to fit. Speedway has a 6-piece kit for $210 that I am looking at.

Anyway, it's coming along nicely.

Mike
 
#77 · (Edited)
#78 ·
Great progress my last 72 I put the filler in the floor of bed with hinged door. After I started driving it I didn't care for the location. Never did change it sold the truck. I think my current one will go in the side behind the rear wheel. Thanks for the pictures
 
#81 ·
Put the bed on to check tank clearance and to see how low the truck is.

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Not really that low in the back so I might run the big bumper - just paint it white.

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I have a trailer hitch that I am going to put on and that will protect the tank. It's not as low as it looks. The rear diff is lower.
 
#82 ·
Ride height looks good Mike. I don`t think you would see the tank with the stock bumper..!