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1959 gmc 100 lwb

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88K views 112 replies 16 participants last post by  406Rich  
#1 ·
Here's my latest. It's, as the title states, a model 100 -the base model. I'm not sure how it spent it's life. There are no logos on it, but it does look like a school district truck.

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I have a friend with a '58 that is orange and it looks stock, so who knows. Maybe in those years you could actually get colors on the trucks, not just white, red and black (and turquoise). :)

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My plan is pretty simple. I bought a clip from a '76 Trans-Am that I will graft right onto the existing frame. This will get me extremely low with great suspension travel and huge disc brakes and an enormous sway bar along with easy mounting for the engine and transmission.

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I already did an axle flip in the rear using the stock one from my gasser. Not sure if I am keeping that one or going with one a bit wider. It's 60" and the trucks is 62". I am also going with a one-piece driveshaft.

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It's going to be stock inside, too. It has the original wheel with horn button and the dash is good. I had to replace the lower hinge on the driver's door. I will paint the footwells and replace some rusted metal around the hinge pocket. Stock bench seat recovered and a floor shifter for the 700R4. I have a Fenton three-speed manual shifter that I might see if I can make work for this. I don't want a newer shifter and I hate the locar style shifters.

I have the GMC for the hood and my bud with the '58 has a chrome front bumper with dagmars that I can have. I am still thinking on it because I also have a '56 Pontiac that I was going to steal the bumpers off of front and rear... or I do also have a '56 Packard front bumper that I have been holding onto since 1978! Which one? I may have to mock them up to see which one I like best. I know that the huge steel rear bumper is coming off.

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I will need to replace all the rubber and seals on the cab. It sat out (probably with the back end either sticking out or under a tree as it is the rustiest part) for who knows how many years and they are all cracked. Needs the flat glass replaced, but that should be easy.

Anyway, that's where we start...
 
#28 ·
Great progress Mike, we did a 50 chevy truck with a 79 camaro clip, and used the camaro column as well, it all fit so well like it was made for it, camaro also donate the rear axle, seats, gas tank, 350/350, and wiring harness.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I lost another post here. It's at about 9 hours. The sub is tacked in place and the b-body springs and spindles are installed. Now to hook up the steering - I think I am going to use a borgeson joint instead of welding it solid. I have some pieces left over from another build - the 'D' shaft etc.

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It's a roller again.
 
#31 ·
Just finished reading through your entire build. What a great project. That’s got to be the biggest rear truck bumper I’ve ever seen. Mine originally came with a Bardin bumper but it was only about half that height. Dig the Pontiac tail lights. They look factory deluxe. Things are certainly moving along now. I like what you’re doing. And I’ve always been a fan of those Pontiac bumpers. I even thought about adding those on mine at one point.

A few years ago a local car show turned up a GMC with a Pontiac engine. I came down from Canada, but I don’t remember if it was American or Canadian built. It’s the red one in front of my truck. Unfortunately I lost my hard drive and the rest of the photos from that event that had close ups of the engine.



 
#32 · (Edited)
Hey Mark,

I've seen the GMCs with that drill before and I think they were fleet vehicles. I seem to remember that they had Chevy dashes instead of the bigger GMC ones.

I got my clip hooked up this past Sunday. It rolls and steers with a Caprice steering column. It sounds weird, but I wanted to have the tilt and it gives me a column shift and I already had it so the price was right. The wiring harness I got from Speedway has the hookups for it too. I will paint it the gray same as the dash and door panels and it should hide pretty well. Have the original wheel on it but will probably put one of my '60s chrome spoke wheels on it instead.

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Mike
 
#33 ·
After a test fit of the front sheetmetal I found that I need to trim the frame about 3/4" to move the clip back. The tires were a bit too far forward in the wheel well. I followed the advise from other builds but 1" forward seems to me to be the best not 1 3/4".

It all comes off for trimming this week.

Mike
 
#34 ·
Awesome build Mike. Just read through your posts, thanks for letting us enjoy your enthusiasm.

The rear bumper... the down side of these wrap around bumpers is a slight impact pushes the bumper into side of the bed, resulting in bent panels... :mad:

But they are old school cool.... anim_25
 
#41 ·
Not so sure about the Pontiac front bumper. It is just a bit too narrow where I would have to trim it or the lower fender extensions to get it to tuck in. Then the upper part almost would be in the way of the stock grill.

I will probably just use the '56 Packard bumper - it's straight across and should compliment the stock grill.

The best would be a '58 Impala bumper but they are very hard to find cheap... :D

Mike
 
#43 ·
Mike anymore updates...?fahne19
 
#44 ·
Hey Rich, yeah, I got the '58 Chevy car bumper that I really wanted last week so that will be my front bumper. It's in great shape.

Also got a Radatron Space Saver III gauge from my bud today at the Canby swap meet. I didn't sell anything but got this so it was worth getting up at 4:30am this morning to go.

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It looks like a chrome tach. Should be a cool add-on.

I am leaning towards the LT1 for my drivetrain. With that and the T/A front clip and the 4l60e and 10-bolt from my '94 Impala it will have almost the same drivetrain as an Impala SS or a cop car. Should scoot and get great economy and be a breeze to drive wherever. Got to get the fuel tank situated. I heard that a suburban from the '90s fuel cell aould fit in the rails of a '59 truck. I can't spend $500-600 for a manufactured fuel cell and pump. Maybe I will check out the Ford fuel tank I got for my '55. It fits in the stock location of that and used either the EFI or carbed fuel pump.

Going to get the hydro-boost from an Astro van (or like) for the braking. Should have that in the next week or so, then it's finish weld the frame and test assemble all the new drivetrain.

Mike
 
#45 ·
#46 ·
#47 · (Edited)
I`m running my filler thru the bed, using a filler from a Geo prism...( I think ) its one and three eights tube matches the filler tube. I cut and welded the filer to fit my application. The vent is right at the top no filling issues. Your frame is slightly wider than the 63 to 66 in the rear. I dilled a small hole in the cap for the vent using a 1/16 drill bit, one verticle, and another horizontal thru the top of the cap to intersect the other hole. I still have to build a small diamond plate box to go around it, it will also hold a bottle jack and handle. You can see the vent hole in the flange on the third pic. It dosen`t hang down as low as my spare did...
 

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#48 ·
Did a little body work today. The front splash pan had been dented pretty bad, actually folded back into itself and pinched. You can see it here.

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I broke out the hammers, dollies, pliers, crescent wrench, home-made slapper, impact hammer and the shrinking disc. The red dot is explained later...

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This is the first round of pulling. I bent the worst out with the pliers. To get into the pinch I used the impact hammer from behind.

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After a few minutes with the slapper and a door panel hammer it was good enough to use the shrinking disc. It works great. Alternate between it and the slapper/dollies. It's close enough now that a skim coat with filler should be good. This area won't even be seen, it's behind the bumper.

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It took about 2 hours total.

I will recommend not setting your hammer on top of the fender while working like this. I was lying on my back pounding the dent and one of the hammers fell and hit my bald head. Much blood came out and of course my wife was a bit freaked. Head wounds are always bleeders. Anyway, it wasn't bad enough for stitches, but I have a cool bandaid/patch on my head now... looks really cool. :mad: Don't use the fender that you are pounding on to hold your other tools... lesson learned. :eek:
 
#49 ·
LoL, sorry for laughfter and hope you`re ok, great job on the splash apron....!
 
#51 ·
Finally decided to get back on the truck. My goal is running and driving by April.

This weekend I borrowed my bud's Miller 211 to finish weld the T/A clip to the frame. Went really well. I used a filler piece of metal like a backer rod to fill the small gap on the inside of the frame. Sorry for the iPhone pic quality. It took about 2 hours of messing around to do.

Here's the inside rear pass side:
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And the front of the same side:
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Today I got the engine in but ran into a snag with the engine mounts. The clip came from a Pontiac with a Poncho motor so I had to move the mounts. There were 2 sets of holes that looked like they might be for BOP and Chevy. I tried the other holes and 2 of the 3 lined up so I drilled out the other one. When I set the engine in it wouldn't line up with the mounts. They appear to be a bit too low still. Something is wrong here and I'll have to do more 'F-body' research. These problems wouldn't exist if it came from a Camaro... food for thought on conversions.

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There is plenty of room for the 700r4 and some headers that I had lying around, got lucky there. I did use the plasma cutter to pop little access holes for the motor mounts and it made taking them off and on a lot easier.

Also installed the rear from my '94 Impala (3.08 posi/disc) and it's low... Right now the truck is sitting on the frame. I flipped the axle to the top and I have new perches but the old U-bolts. Am I doing it wrong? Even if I c-notch the frame I will have almost no room for suspension travel. What are others of you doing here? Stock spring pack? New springs? Air bags/shocks?

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Mike
 
#53 ·
Also installed the rear from my '94 Impala (3.08 posi/disc) and it's low... Right now the truck is sitting on the frame. I flipped the axle to the top and I have new perches but the old U-bolts. Am I doing it wrong? Even if I c-notch the frame I will have almost no room for suspension travel. What are others of you doing here? Stock spring pack? New springs? Air bags/shocks

Mike
Mike many of them that are lowering,... are substantually c-notching the frame ( like a foot up from where it would normally reside ), and most of the real low ones are using either four link, ( porter built ) or trailing arms, the kinda thing I don`t care for but its your truck. We`ll help you anyway we can...