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Looking for more info on a 5 lug swap

12K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  rocknrod 
#1 ·
I'm about start the search for a 73-87 C10 to convert my 65' to 5 lug/disk brake etc...my question is how much will I need to take from the 73-87? Will I need to take the whole crossmember from rotor to rotor or can I just take the spindles and rotors etc?

Also if I take the rear axles out of the donor truck I'm tracking that I will need to have a machine shop chop 3/4" off of them to get them to work, is there something else I'm overlooking?

I'm looking for the most inexpensive way to get this done, I'm pretty much recycling beer cans to fund my project haha...any info will help, thanks for reading. Have a good one
Tom
 
#2 ·
Ok Tom, lets review this first of all changing the rear to five lug, one of three ways.
1. Have original axles redrilled for five lug pattern and buy new drums for `70 c10 ( 5 lug )

2. buy complete rear axle from 70 to 72 c10, buy the adaptor tracking bar for your truck to said rear axle. ( same total rear axle width )

3. buy newer complete rear axle from `73 to `87 ( total rear axle width wider by 1.5 inches also five lug), ( usually not an issue providing your not going with real wide tires )... but with friendlier street gearing usually 3.42 or 3.07, you`ll probably need to buy the tracking bar and rear axle pads to be welded to rear axle housing to bolt to your trying arms....

Front suspension,
1. you rob from the donor truck, spindles, calipers, brackets from any `73 to `87 c10 or up to `91 suburban all two wheel drive, buy new ball joints for `73 to `87 use you stock a-arms, also get master booster and proportioning valve from donor vehicle.

2. use entire front crossmember complete from donor truck, you`ll need to somewhat slot two bolt holes for this x`member to bolt to your frame, standard practice, grab everything else, master, booster, proportioning valve..two notes here, to do x-member swap, motor will need to come out ( engine mounts to x-member ) and replace the u-bolts that hold your lower control arms on with the newer style they are larger in size, you have to redress the holes ....

you did not mention power steering.....? and I know I`m forgetting something...anim_63
 
#3 ·
Holy cow that is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!! I'm glad to know there are so many options.

I do plan on going to power steering someday but I have other things I want to get done first, but for future reference, if I understand correctly taking the whole crossmember would be the easiest way to skin that cat, correct? I would just need to grab basically the whole steering system from the donor?
 
#4 ·
Correct Tom, grab everything ...!
 
#6 ·
Yes sir, top and bottom both with ball joints for a `73 to `87 c10, when you get your donor parts particularly the rotors, measure them, they used 1 inch and 1.25 inch rotors, you`ll need this info when you replace the brake pads...
 
#7 ·
Update!!

Just wanted to let you all know there's still some good luck to be had out there...I scored an '87 complete truck(minus engine) with disk brakes, power steering, *new* sway bar and enough spare solid sheet metal to build the front clip twice(selling all that) and a few sets of 5 lugs wheels and other random stuff all for $350. I feel pretty good about it! Cant wait to get started! Thanks for all the guidance everyone!!
 
#8 ·
Great score, now you`ve got the parts you need in one buy...! Tom there will be a few small parts you will need to buy...such as the power steering adapter plate.. without it you will never have the steering box in the right position....this locates the box up and out from the frame...either thru Cpp or Captain Fab....this image thru captain Fab, I believe this is a better unit, actually places the box in a better position.....http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/LostMy65/media/IMG_20151003_151203_zpstms1pkeq.jpg.html
 
#10 ·
you`ll have to contact him thru the forum, and yes the brake booster plate is well worth the money...just send him a PM thru the 67 to 72 board..
 
#18 ·
You don't have to remove the engine for a entire crossmember swap. You only have to rig some way to support the front of the engine. I have used a small chain stretched between the frame rails and a chunk of rubber between the chain and harmonic balancer. A ratchet strap would work also. Possibly cut some two by four to fit between the frame rails. anything to support the front of the engine.
 
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