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  #471  
Old 10-18-2017, 12:06 AM
Brim Brim is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 406Rich View Post
not sure what you mean by not backing off after that......
In other words not loosening the rocker nut after the push rod won't spin.
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  #472  
Old 10-18-2017, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brim View Post
In other words not loosening the rocker nut after the push rod won't spin.
Yes you can, you want to get the pushrod in a light contact right at that point before you can`t move it at all..
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  #473  
Old 10-18-2017, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 406Rich View Post
Yes you can, you want to get the pushrod in a light contact right at that point before you can`t move it at all..
Ok Thanks.
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  #474  
Old 10-21-2017, 12:16 AM
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This is turning out to be the build from Hell. I have never and I mean never ran into as many issues on other cars or trucks as I have experienced with this one.
Put about $20 worth of gas in the new tank after adjusting the valves. The pump won't draw from the tank.
So I say to myself ok that's fair, maybe need to change the line out since the old sending unit was covered in crud. So I made plans to get one in the morning. So then I figure let's try and start it straight from a gas can and bypass the fuel line. Nothing, the clear fuel filter would not even get a little gas. Fuel pump is brand new. Only been on for a few months and probably has a total of 10 minutes of use.
As a last resort I tried pouring gas directly into the carb and it still would not start. My battery was a little weak from sitting on the shelf for the last 3 months. Got it charging now, but the Fuel pump issue has me scratching my head. Do you guys think the cam might have worn out a lobe? I never could do a full break in because the damn engine would overheat so quickly.
I'm at the point where if I experience the same results after replacing the fuel line tomorrow I'm seriously considering pulling the engine and just building a 350 or even maybe buying one used and installing it. The build on this block just doesn't seem like it was done right. TDC is not TDC on the dampener. It is actually a little past it. I think the cam may have not been degreed or maybe was installed incorrectly?
Also the heads are from a 307 and I'm not sure if they allow the right clearance for the valves? New radiator, new thermostat, new fan clutch and water pump. I
Sorry for the long rant guys but I'm in a bad spot, need my truck running. No other means to get to work, plus I'm on the nightshift. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mark
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  #475  
Old 10-21-2017, 07:40 AM
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Are you sure the fuel pump is under the rod??? its easy to get this wrong. Don't get to frustrated I and many others have had a build from hell. First check f/p. Get fuel you should at least get a backfire out of it. Do you have spark? Use timing light to see if #1 is firing when it should by removing #1 plug and checking light with damper. It's possible the damper ring slipped. I have to work this AM so I'll check back later Good luck.
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  #476  
Old 10-21-2017, 08:10 AM
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Charlie,
FP had been working fine until yesterday when I made the attempt to start it. Last time I actually had the engine on/running was back in Aug before the Hurricane. Since then sits just been sitting because I haven't had the time to work on it due to my recovery efforts on my house.

That's why I was puzzled as to why it would of failed by just sitting there. I'm going to change out the fuel line, reinstall the battery and see from there. I will let you know how it goes latter on this evening.

Thanks,
Mark
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